Exactly what I did ( dimpled slotted ) and for the same reason!

 

Slotted rotors alone make a big difference IMHO. I might have to try the dimpled/slotted the next time I'm due (which will be soon).

 

NOW I know. I just received a pair of Motorcraft BRR 99 front rotors from Amazon, designed for a RWD / 2WD 2001 F150, etc.
They came with the inner & outer bearing races already installed. Only other new part really needed would be the inner grease seal - Timken 4148 was the part # I got from Rock Auto.
As far as I can tell, there is no such thing as an outer grease seal on this assembly, the outer hub cap is designed to keep the grease from oozing from the outer end of the hub.
The day I searched for these parts, Amazon was offering no-extra-charge shipping, pretty good for 60 pounds of rotors, and Rock Auto's charge for the grease seal was extremely low because they were discontinuing that model. My cost for the 2 seals delivered was less than the cost for a single seal at my local parts stores or at Amazon. /
I have posted photos of these 2 part numbers at Amazon, under 'customer supplied photos' for each of these parts.

 

I have posted the Ford manual method here.

 

t. duggan,
One thing I have run across with my 2000 F150 2wd, there actually 3 rotors that will fit that application. Be sure to check the stud size and length, that is the difference. I just changed mine about 10000 miles ago and since I have the big, short studs I had to wait 2 days for them to come in.
Have fun and good luck.

 

Hub & rotor are all in one on 2wd trucks. Take brake caliper off 1st as an assembly (hang out of your way). Use a pair of medium sized channel locks to remove dust cover as you need to grip it tightly. You can also use a small flat screw driver or chisel and hammer it off. Then use side cutters (wire cutters) to remove the cotter pin. With channel locks remove spindle nut and washer with outer bearing. Thread spindle back on about 2 turns, then hold rotor on both sides and pull off sharply. This usually will leave the inner bearing on the spindle and an empty rotor in your hands. Remove nut, inner bearing and seal. Get some wheel bearing grease and smear inside rotor hub and both inner & outer races (which come with the rotor). Place rotor inner side face up on floor, put inner bearing flush with the race and install the seal with a hammer (tap evenly). You can reuse old bearings and seals. Slide new rotor on spindle, install outer bearing, retainer washer and nut. Snug up nut with channel locks until no side play in rotor then put crown cap over nut and back off to 1st hole to replace cotter pin. reinstall caliper, pump brake a few time..good to go!

 

There is no such thing as an "outer seal", just the hub bearing cap...if damaged just clean and straighten, hammer back on and smear some silicon around to seal out water.

 

A tip for hammering in the grease seal - use a flat piece of wood large enough to cover the entire circumference of the seal - a short cut off piece of 2x4 works well here. Use the wood between your new seal and your hammer. You can verify that you are hammering along the axis of the rotor simply by eyeballing how the wood aligns with the rotor Hammer over the wood in the centerline of the grease seal, you will most likely drive it in evenly this way.

 

Chain wrench works great for removal. No dents!

 

I'll give that a try in a month or so. I have to do the brakes and rotors then.

 

I tried channel locks on my last job - didn't work, would have had to have crushed the grease caps with that wrench to get them off. I've no chain wrench. I do have a large pipe wrench, that was just the trick to grab into the soft metal and pop off the cap - used it like it was a claw hammer extracting a nail.

 

Let us know how it turned out.