rotors
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 39
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rotors
I am having to change my rotors on my 2000 150 4.2 2 wheel drive.
In this truck the rotor and hub assembly are one.
What special tools will I need to get this done? and is in necessary to regreese and pack them?
In this truck the rotor and hub assembly are one.
What special tools will I need to get this done? and is in necessary to regreese and pack them?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18,157
Likes: 0
From: Stanton DE
I think the mane thing you will need ,is a big enough wrench or socket to fit the spindle nut.
You should repack the barrings before you put it back together!
Some info you will need.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...indal-nut.html
You should repack the barrings before you put it back together!
Some info you will need.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...indal-nut.html
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
Yes, on the 2WD the front rotor and hub are one piece, with an inner and outer bearing contained in the hub. Those should at least be cleaned, repacked, and new inner and outer seals installed.
The spindle nut shouldn't be tight at all because it is used to load the bearings after reassembly, and final torque value is quite low (17 ft lbs if I recall). I can look it up for sure if you need it.
A pair of channel locks will take that nut off with no problem. The dust covers always give me the hardest time. Hard to take them off and reseat them without dinging them up.
The spindle nut shouldn't be tight at all because it is used to load the bearings after reassembly, and final torque value is quite low (17 ft lbs if I recall). I can look it up for sure if you need it.
A pair of channel locks will take that nut off with no problem. The dust covers always give me the hardest time. Hard to take them off and reseat them without dinging them up.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
You should get new inner and outer bearings and races when You replace the rotors. When I replaced Mine I went to A-Zone 3 times and they could not get the right ones. I then went to NAPA where they asked a lot more questons about size, lug pattern exc. payed a few buck more but got the right ones. Scott
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 567
Likes: 1
YouTube has several videos illustrating the procedure to remove & replace the front rotor with wheel bearings & seals included. One of them showed an interesting technique for having the inner grease seal pulled out of the rotor as the rotor is pulled off the spindle.
I don't know if new rotors come with the bearing races installed or not. If not, you will most likely need a special tool to hammer or slide the bearing races into position.
I don't know if new rotors come with the bearing races installed or not. If not, you will most likely need a special tool to hammer or slide the bearing races into position.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Garland Texas
I had the same problem when I put Cross Drilled rotors on my 01 Screw, I ordered the wrong front rotors from summit and had to send them back and re-order ones with hubs included. No special tools needed, but I did have to go buy bearings and bearing grease from autozone.
Here is a pic of my front hubs/rotors as I put them on:
Also, here are the ones I had to send back:
Here is a pic of my front hubs/rotors as I put them on:
Also, here are the ones I had to send back:
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 2
From: okc
What was the difference?? I'm looking at buying some drilled and slotted rotors,and performance pads on my '00 Harley F150. Any suggestions???
The trick for removing the inner seal is to put the spindle nut back on after pulling the outer bearings, and slide the rotor down the spindle using the spindle nut to catch the seal on the way out. They usually pop right out, and can be reused in drastic situations, like when the zone fails to give you the correct seal when you went just before closing time.
The trick for removing the inner seal is to put the spindle nut back on after pulling the outer bearings, and slide the rotor down the spindle using the spindle nut to catch the seal on the way out. They usually pop right out, and can be reused in drastic situations, like when the zone fails to give you the correct seal when you went just before closing time.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Garland Texas
Haha oh it's cool, I would strongly recommend checking out SummitRacing's section on F150 brakes. The cross drilled/slotted ones you see in my pics provided an immense difference in stopping power and noticeable decrease in brake fade during long/hard use.
I'm currently using OEM Heavy duty pads on the rotors but I will upgrade to some slightly more high performance pads once these go out.
The install is really quite simple if you've got the right tools to keep the caliper pistons down and such.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,446
Likes: 9
From: NE Iowa JD Country
Aren't you inherently weakening the rotor with being drilled?? I understand that the thought is to keep them cooler...but being weaker wouldn't they more prone to brakeage/warping then?? wouldn't dimpled & slotted be better?