Replacing front rotors
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 122
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From: VA
Replacing front rotors
I couldn't find any posts that were specific to a 91 F150 4x4 shortbed. I need to replace front rotors and pads and figured I would replace the front bearings while I was in there.
My questions:
Do I need any special tool to get the hub off?
Is it better to get the hub/rotor assembly together?
Approximate costs?
Any tips (or step by step instructions would be good)?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
D Ray
My questions:
Do I need any special tool to get the hub off?
Is it better to get the hub/rotor assembly together?
Approximate costs?
Any tips (or step by step instructions would be good)?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
D Ray
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Ive got a '93 F-150 that I replaced the front brakes on last night.
First, you need remove the brake calipers and the pads. Two pins hold this on.
Next, you need to take off your hub assembly. You will need a specific tool for this. Go to NAPA or some other auto parts store and tell them that you need a hub socket for your specific truck (they make different sizes for 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, and 1 ton trucks). Then, you can use that to remove the two nuts that hold on the rotor assembly. Now you can just pull the whole assembly out and put it aside. If I am not mistaken, I had five parts that came out of the assembly. Is yours an automatic or manual locking hub? Mine is manual.
Once that is out, you can remove the rotors and get them turned or replaced if needed. If your hub parts look worn or damaged, I would go ahead and replace them. A set of manual locking hubs cost me about $75 a side.
For the rotors and pads, I payed $45 for the pads and am not too sure about the rotors. Mine got turned for $7 a side.
Hope this helps.
First, you need remove the brake calipers and the pads. Two pins hold this on.
Next, you need to take off your hub assembly. You will need a specific tool for this. Go to NAPA or some other auto parts store and tell them that you need a hub socket for your specific truck (they make different sizes for 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, and 1 ton trucks). Then, you can use that to remove the two nuts that hold on the rotor assembly. Now you can just pull the whole assembly out and put it aside. If I am not mistaken, I had five parts that came out of the assembly. Is yours an automatic or manual locking hub? Mine is manual.
Once that is out, you can remove the rotors and get them turned or replaced if needed. If your hub parts look worn or damaged, I would go ahead and replace them. A set of manual locking hubs cost me about $75 a side.
For the rotors and pads, I payed $45 for the pads and am not too sure about the rotors. Mine got turned for $7 a side.
Hope this helps.
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 20
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You may already know this but....If you are going to replace the rotors then you are going to need to press out the wheel studs and remove the hub from the rotor. If you are a big spender then you can buy a whole new rotor and hub assembly but I have always been too cheap for that. If you have access to a press then this job is very easy. If not, then, it can still be done, but you will need a big hammer, some deep sockets and a vice is handy. Just press or beat out the wheel studs and the hub should come off the rotor, if it does not give it a hit and it should break free. Then reverse the process you just did to put your existing hub on your new rotor and press in or hammer in the wheel studs. When you have the truck back together make sure you torque your lugnuts to the right spec to ensure the hub and rotor pull together like they should.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
I just used a hammer to punch out the wheel studs, came right out.
I used a metal chisel to separate the hub from the rotor.
After lining up the splines, I put the wheel studs back in with a metal punch and hammer. You can tell they're seated when the tone of the impact changes.
I used a metal chisel to separate the hub from the rotor.
After lining up the splines, I put the wheel studs back in with a metal punch and hammer. You can tell they're seated when the tone of the impact changes.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: VA
Thanks!
Gonna pull it in my buddies garage this afternoon and start on it, assuming I can get the bearing nut tool from the local autozone. According to the haynes manual (which I finally broke down and purchased after 10 years) it will take that tool to get the bearing nut off. I'm hoping they'll have it to loan out.
Gonna pull it in my buddies garage this afternoon and start on it, assuming I can get the bearing nut tool from the local autozone. According to the haynes manual (which I finally broke down and purchased after 10 years) it will take that tool to get the bearing nut off. I'm hoping they'll have it to loan out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,113
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From: Remsen, NY
The tool is very cheap, less than $20. Worth having if you have a 4x4 with a D44 style front axle like that.
Some have said that pressing/hammering studs in and out of the hub/rotor assembly warps rotors and they need to be turned once they're mounted but I have never had problems. I question if those who have have rust on the back of the hub or front of the rotor that fouls up how it seats.
Some have said that pressing/hammering studs in and out of the hub/rotor assembly warps rotors and they need to be turned once they're mounted but I have never had problems. I question if those who have have rust on the back of the hub or front of the rotor that fouls up how it seats.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 523
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Ima bout to do the same thing. Mine are getting down and I have a mean warped one on the right. Just a quicky should I get oem replacement or should I just get some ported ones or not worth it?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 128
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From: Otsego, MN
The round hub nut tool is black (mine is) and like they said cheap and nice to have for the future. Put the wheel studs in the freezer b-4 putting back in helps a bit.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 122
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From: VA
I finished it up friday night. It wasn't as bad as I thought and the bearings were in pretty good shape. I replaced them anyway since I had gone that far with it. The studs weren't that bad to get out or put back in. I just used a large lug nut, small ball peen hammer to get them out and the larger hammer to get them back in. PB Blaster helped a little too. The new grease smells a little but I'm sure that will fade after a while. It stops so much better now and is smooth, no shuttering.
Advance had the hub nut tool for $9 but I didn't find out until I returned their "loaner" tool.
Thanks to all who replied.
Advance had the hub nut tool for $9 but I didn't find out until I returned their "loaner" tool.
Thanks to all who replied.