Hi all,

My Ex is my workhorse and I love it, but I have one consistent problem with it: there seems to be either a parasitic electrical power loss or a problem with the alternator. Last winter I experienced some hard starting and really started paying attention to the battery meter on the dash. If the meter indicator arm didn't get up to the + on the battery, I knew the batteries didn't have enough juice to start the beast. I started using the block heater to make it easier for the engine to crank and that worked for the winter.

But the battery gauge occasionally still showed problems during the spring and summer (depending on how long it sat - longer and the juice was lower) and if I left the doors open to load the truck, say for a vacation, for an hour (and the lights did shut off after a few minutes) it would be very hard to get the juice up to the point where it would start. On two occasions I had it happen that I needed to jump it to get it started. The batteries tested fine after running for a bit, but clearly they are not being fully charged up when running and/or there is some power being lost elsewhere when it's not running.

I did just replace both batteries last week and the gauge levels looked great for a few days, but again this morning I had a really hard start where I didn't think it was going to have enough juice to get it done. It was 47 degrees so the batteries should not have been affected much by the temps

I searched around on here and read a bunch, then went out and pulled some fuses and relays. All fuses are OK, but when I pulled the "battery saver relay" (relay #2 in the cockpit fuse box) it was very warm. I think that is strange since the truck was not on, had not been run for about 6 hours, and I hadn't had the doors open for more than a minute when I pulled it. None of the other relays were warm.

So a few questions:
1. How can I test the alternator to see if it's fully charging?
2. Should the relay be warm? Is that indicative of something worse? Should I replace it?
3. Any other ideas for what's going on?

Thanks for the help.

Scott

 

Hi Scott - In case it helps, here is my current thread from the 6.0 section... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...em-or-not.html

Also, here is a link to a website on testing alternators. I found it to be of some help. Alternator Repair, bad alternator symptoms,help,diagnosis, problem, repair

Magical disappearing voltage: Hate it with a passion. Mike

 

Hello Scott,

We had a similar issue with our 2000 Excursion for about a year. We replaced the batteries last winter, and it helped some. Eventually the Voltage Regulator in the alternator went out. No issues at all since replacing that too.

You can also check for trickle discharging when off by using an amp-meter. If you pull the "hot" fuse does the current draw on the batteries decrease?

 

Did you replace the entire alternator or did you simply replace the voltage regulator within it? If just the voltage regulator, where did you find a replacement?

Thanks!

 

Good question Mike,

We were traveling at the time, so I removed the three bolts and the one wiring harness, had Napa test it. They said the Voltage Regulator was bad. So I replaced the whole alternator, and continued the traveling.

I swear it starts quicker then when we bought it used 2 years ago. I think the Voltage Regulator was probably always a little iffy.

Glad the Injectors run on oil pressure and not on electricity... I just wish it hadn't died at night.

Sorry to not have a Regulator source.

 

Also make sure all major connections are clean and tight.

 

That is what my problem was last winter, not so much them being clean, but tight as well. At the time I was using aftermarket terminals and found that I needed to re-do some of the wiring as it and the terminal were loose. I replaced them with Zinc terminals and to this day I get the stongest of starts and no problem maintaining 14 volts charging.

 

Thanks for the link, Mike. I hate little gremlins like this.

I did notice that after about 45 sec this morning the glow plug delay finished and the dash ammeter jumped way up and the start was somewhat easier than yesterday's. I'll keep monitoring and reading and see if I want to replace the alternator or just wait and see. If nothing else I can hook up the block heater and trickle charger to ensure better starts every morning.

 

Well, just in case anyone is interested, here is where I am with mine. I have now checked the fluid level in the batteries (Duh, I suppose, should have thought of that right away), and my alternator does seem to be charging normally, so at the suggestion of Bismic, on my thread, I am taking it to a dealer later in the week to have a more sophisticated load test done on my batteries. They are still under warranty, and if they are bad I should get free replacements. Meanwhile, just out of curiosity, I am letting it sit for the next few days and checking the battery voltage once or twice a day, just to see if I am losing voltage while sitting. Good luck with yours.

 

Bringing this one back. I continued to have the same issue with this throughout last winter and through all of this year, too. If I wait until all of the systems are charged and ready before trying to start it, it usually works. Sometimes I have warm up the glow plugs twice, but I can still get it to turn over eventually.

I did some more reading on the subject and I think that the real issue might be one of the glow plug control units is shot and only one bank is being warmed for the start. Now that I have my new car I can take the truck to a shop to get this lookedat. I will also have them replace the voltage regulator on the alternator (or the whole thing if necessary).

Any other suggestions?

 

I had a similar issue with my ex soon after I bought it. I had everything checked and the diode was bad in the alternator. I would make sure they disconnect the batteries to load test them. If I let it sit overnight I would have to jump it, but if I went to start it a couple hours after I shut it off, it would start right up. I also had to replace both batteries. Before I connected the batteries I checked to see how much amperage I was drawing when the truck was off. I believe you don't want any more than .012 amps when off. Just my $0.02.

Red