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Protect it from what? I can see them peaking at 160+ amps at first, but the amps goes down as they heat up. Once the light is off and the engine fires I cannot see them drawing more than 80 amps or so.
I haven't tested it, just guessing.
It's no wonder the batteries, crappy 6G alternator and FICM take such a beating.
Protect it from what? I can see them peaking at 160+ amps at first, but the amps goes down as they heat up. Once the light is off and the engine fires I cannot see them drawing more than 80 amps or so.
I haven't tested it, just guessing.
It's no wonder the batteries, crappy 6G alternator and FICM take such a beating.
Josh
Take the 80 or so amps for the glow plugs and then add the rest of the electrical load for the engine electronics,fuel pump,lights,climate control, stereo...etc. With an alternator rated for 110 amps it is easy to see why the batteries and FICM and the alternator take a beating. Electrical/charging system maintainence is important for component longevity. These trucks should really have had an alternator rated for somewhere around 200 amps.
Take the 80 or so amps for the glow plugs and then add the rest of the electrical load for the engine electronics,fuel pump,lights,climate control, stereo...etc. With an alternator rated for 110 amps it is easy to see why the batteries and FICM and the alternator take a beating. Electrical/charging system maintainence is important for component longevity. These trucks should really have had an alternator rated for somewhere around 200 amps.
I agree, alternator is grossly under rated and under performs.
Gives new meaning to avoiding short trips when you factor in the alternator isn't even truly charging after cold/semi-sold starts.
Take the 80 or so amps for the glow plugs and then add the rest of the electrical load for the engine electronics,fuel pump,lights,climate control, stereo...etc. With an alternator rated for 110 amps it is easy to see why the batteries and FICM and the alternator take a beating. Electrical/charging system maintainence is important for component longevity. These trucks should really have had an alternator rated for somewhere around 200 amps.
Folks are Money Ahead to switch to a DC Power alternator
/agreed. I really like my 270 amp XP alternator and will have to ponder defeating the stock design wiring since I have an alternator that can do just fine. Hmm...
Purpose:
This bulletin is intended to address the need to remove an alternator from 2003 MY and beyond F-Series Super
Duty (F-250/350/450/550) trucks equipped with the 6.0L Diesel engine and dual alternators
Purpose:
This bulletin is intended to address the need to remove an alternator from 2003 MY and beyond F-Series Super
Duty (F-250/350/450/550) trucks equipped with the 6.0L Diesel engine and dual alternators
Yes, specifically when converting a dual alternator to SINGLE alternator operation.
I see what you are saying - it is implied that the desire is to retain that capability in the conversion..
I would recommend you getting an inductive (clamp on) ammeter and checking the single alternator current at cranking and for the first bit of time on start-up. That is the best way to decide what to believe. Several of us have done this and we saw that the alternator was not immediately producing - didn't take 2 minutes to come on line though.
Interestingly enough, my stock alternator did not produce current at first start-up with this test, but my DCPower one does.
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