High Mileage Oil Results - Inconclusive
#1
High Mileage Oil Results - Inconclusive
2003 Escape 6cylinder
Well after using Castrol High Mileage Oil and checked the oil at 2000 miles, the oil level is still in the "safe" range. It is not where it is right after an oil change, but not low enough to add a quart of oil like I used to. I would estimate it could probably take a half quart right now.
The results are inconclusive though, since I do not know if the results are from the Castrol High Mileage Oil or the increase in the viscosity. I did change from using 5w-20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend Oil to 5w-30 Castrol High Mileage Part Synthetic. Next oil change I am going to use Castrol High Mileage 5w-20.
So really not sure if the heavier oil had anything to do with the decrease in oil usage or if it was the high mileage Castrol oil.
Remember I have no leaks or visible smoking from the exhaust. Still wondering where the oil is going. Must be getting through rings and being burned, only thing I can think of. The amount right now is not a worry, but could get worse as the engine wears.
Well after using Castrol High Mileage Oil and checked the oil at 2000 miles, the oil level is still in the "safe" range. It is not where it is right after an oil change, but not low enough to add a quart of oil like I used to. I would estimate it could probably take a half quart right now.
The results are inconclusive though, since I do not know if the results are from the Castrol High Mileage Oil or the increase in the viscosity. I did change from using 5w-20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend Oil to 5w-30 Castrol High Mileage Part Synthetic. Next oil change I am going to use Castrol High Mileage 5w-20.
So really not sure if the heavier oil had anything to do with the decrease in oil usage or if it was the high mileage Castrol oil.
Remember I have no leaks or visible smoking from the exhaust. Still wondering where the oil is going. Must be getting through rings and being burned, only thing I can think of. The amount right now is not a worry, but could get worse as the engine wears.
#2
#3
#5
don't know if any of you have had this problem,my 07 uses oil big time.like a qt every 800 miles with any brand of reg oil,yet if i use a semi like motor craft or full syntech it goes the full 3.000 miles between with out useing a drop.yet ford hasn't found any problem,the motor is sludge free and runs like a top.
as to useing 5w20 or 5w30,ford and other brands spec it to help with the epa mpg stickers. this is commonly known to those of us working inside the dealer shops
as to useing 5w20 or 5w30,ford and other brands spec it to help with the epa mpg stickers. this is commonly known to those of us working inside the dealer shops
#6
5W-30 is listed in the Owner's Manuals for the overseas Escapes.... in the UK & Australia anyway (1st generation vehicles). From what i've read 5W-20 wasn't readily available when the Escape first came out, and it's probably hard to find in many parts of the world. Also, the 5W-20 gives a higher estimated mpg for Ford fleet service or something like that. I've used 5W-30 synthetic during the summer & there was never any noticeable difference, and the mpg was the same as when using 5W-20.
#7
Still Better Gas Mileage 0W-20
Castrol Edge has a 0W-20 and 0W-30 motor oil.
SAE 0W–20
Castrol SYNTEC 0W-20 is formulated to meet the needs of modern fuel-efficient vehicles including hybrids, where SAE 0W-20 is endorsed by the manufacturer. SYNTEC 0W-20 is a full synthetic oil that helps extend engine life while delivering maximum fuel economy. SYNTEC 0W-20 is suitable for newer Toyota, Honda, Chrysler , Subaru and Mercury models. Because of its low viscosity, SYNTEC 0W-20 provides excellent protection in low temperatures. API service SM. SYNTEC 0W-20 meets catalyst/emissions system compatibility and all requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2.
Must be like water..
SAE 0W–20
Castrol SYNTEC 0W-20 is formulated to meet the needs of modern fuel-efficient vehicles including hybrids, where SAE 0W-20 is endorsed by the manufacturer. SYNTEC 0W-20 is a full synthetic oil that helps extend engine life while delivering maximum fuel economy. SYNTEC 0W-20 is suitable for newer Toyota, Honda, Chrysler , Subaru and Mercury models. Because of its low viscosity, SYNTEC 0W-20 provides excellent protection in low temperatures. API service SM. SYNTEC 0W-20 meets catalyst/emissions system compatibility and all requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2.
Must be like water..
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#8
I use 0W-40 in my car and it's really watery when cold. If you use a 0W oil make sure your seals are good because it tends to leak.
I'm still skeptical of the 20 weight oil. I mean there is a certain amount of force between the moving parts of an engine and if the oil doesn't have the film strength then you're going to get wear.
I'm still skeptical of the 20 weight oil. I mean there is a certain amount of force between the moving parts of an engine and if the oil doesn't have the film strength then you're going to get wear.
#9
Both 5W-20 and 5W-30 are depending upon viscosity index improver {VI} additives {long chain monomers} to up the 'apparent' viscosity when at operating temperature. The polymer is coiled up when cold, and straightens out, or un-coils when it is warmed up. The effect is to give the oil more 'body', or viscosity at higher temps. The additive eventually wears out from getting sheared [cut], formerly by the cam and lifter interface on flat tappet cams and flat bottom lifters. They were not in 'rotational' contact, as the rods and mains are, so the polymers got cut to smaller pieces, and the viscosity dropped over time.
With the new roller tappet cam followers, there is less shear in the friction areas of the engine, so the VI's will last longer.
The difference between the two mentioned is the amount of VI added to the base stock. In the past, the 'reach' between the base, such as 5W or 10W, and the operating viscosity, i.e. the 30 in 10W-30, or the 50 in 20W-50, was an indicator of how much VI was added. I suspect it still is. So, the '20' difference in 10W-30 and the '30' difference in 20W-50 seem to show that the latter has a lot more VI added, and will be subject to the actual, measurable viscosity at working temperature falling off sooner than the former, but its 'base' is a 20W rather than a 10W.
My take on the 5W-20 and 5W-30 is that the latter will work its way down to the former as the oil ages and is used in the crankcase. You should have a longer 'good viscosity' life using the latter oil, as there are more VI's there from the get-go, and so it will keep working longer as they are destroyed, or used up.
tom
p.s. I don't think that the fuel mileage difference would be measurable by us humble drivers between the two. Perhaps over a long period of time it might be apparent, but I don't think one or two tanks of consumption would be a good provable indicator. The major design requirement for using the 5W or 0W is getting oil flowing immediately on startup with the 5W oil, and then keeping the pressure at temp, and carrying off heat using the oil as the working fluid. The VI will allow for use of thinner oils, and the clearances on newer engines are smaller than older engines, which would keep the pressure up even with less viscous oils. In other words, a thinner rotating 'ring' of lube in plain bearings, [rod & main] will cause less friction as the layer is thinner and has less molecules to churn against one another. The bearings actually don't touch each other when the engine is running, but are supported by a 'wave' of oil. If the 'wave' is thick, there's more stuff happening inside it, if it is thinner, there's less to churn around.
tom
With the new roller tappet cam followers, there is less shear in the friction areas of the engine, so the VI's will last longer.
The difference between the two mentioned is the amount of VI added to the base stock. In the past, the 'reach' between the base, such as 5W or 10W, and the operating viscosity, i.e. the 30 in 10W-30, or the 50 in 20W-50, was an indicator of how much VI was added. I suspect it still is. So, the '20' difference in 10W-30 and the '30' difference in 20W-50 seem to show that the latter has a lot more VI added, and will be subject to the actual, measurable viscosity at working temperature falling off sooner than the former, but its 'base' is a 20W rather than a 10W.
My take on the 5W-20 and 5W-30 is that the latter will work its way down to the former as the oil ages and is used in the crankcase. You should have a longer 'good viscosity' life using the latter oil, as there are more VI's there from the get-go, and so it will keep working longer as they are destroyed, or used up.
tom
p.s. I don't think that the fuel mileage difference would be measurable by us humble drivers between the two. Perhaps over a long period of time it might be apparent, but I don't think one or two tanks of consumption would be a good provable indicator. The major design requirement for using the 5W or 0W is getting oil flowing immediately on startup with the 5W oil, and then keeping the pressure at temp, and carrying off heat using the oil as the working fluid. The VI will allow for use of thinner oils, and the clearances on newer engines are smaller than older engines, which would keep the pressure up even with less viscous oils. In other words, a thinner rotating 'ring' of lube in plain bearings, [rod & main] will cause less friction as the layer is thinner and has less molecules to churn against one another. The bearings actually don't touch each other when the engine is running, but are supported by a 'wave' of oil. If the 'wave' is thick, there's more stuff happening inside it, if it is thinner, there's less to churn around.
tom
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