1948 F1 FORD Panel - Truck

I had a 1950 pickup back in high school so this brings back the memories. I have been wanting to build a multi purpose hotrod for a while now and just waiting for the right project to hit me. I have a few questions that you guys can help with. It looks like the owner has done a lot of good work allready, he installed a 351 windsor out of a 70's Torino and a C4 3 speed trans both rebuilt. He has added headers, a mild cam and a 4 barrel carb but not sure what else. It of course needs the paint and interior done, what else do you see that the truck would need? What do you think is a fair offer?
Thanks
Mogman

 

if the funds (and boss) allow.... GO FOR IT. I would (personally) start with a $6k cash offer.... IF you can see it in person and drive it first. If the seller refuses a test drive, or it cannot be driven for whatever reason, the starting offer would go down.

Always make sure it is understood that the offer is dependant on the truck being correctly and accurately represented. If you have to travel to inspect the truck, try to work out a deal that locks the seller into an agreed price pending personal inspection, before you make the trip. And come prepared to lay down the cash, and take a friend that can be immpartial and tell you if he sees a problem that you may overlook.


Otherwise, truck looks good from pics, I personally would worry more about interior than paint. ( I like the patina )

 

Looks like a pretty decent truck to me but I'm in the rust belt and anything that isn't rusted off the frame looks good to me. The body looks decent and it looks like it has good doors, the second hardest part to find for a panel truck right behind original bucket seats.

You didn't state your location or have it listed in the upper right hand corner. I suggest everyone post their location. The main reason is there might be some one here on the board who lives nearby and could go with you to inspect the truck. I'm sure you'd get an objective opinion. The truck is on Craigslist AZ, are you nearby? I know there's at least two frequent FTE posters who live in AZ, maybe near you.

 

Hey Mogman,
We own a 1950 F1 pickup & we are about 90% done with the restoration so we've seen some of the challenges.
Here's what I like from the description:
Rebuilt 351W (I paid $4K for mine with a lot of performance upgrades).
Heidt's Front End (I paid $3K for the parts - Anoher $2K for installation).
Transmission (I went with a newly rebuilt AOD - Another $2K).

That's $11K in Work/Parts that you don't have to do - I like that.
-----------------------------------------------------

The other area of major cost is rebuilding the cab & supports under it
& fixing the bottom part of the doors. Wear some grungy clothes & get down under the cab & look up - See if he has really repaired the underside of the cab & floor. If it looks like hell .... be careful.. As they say "Jump in the water is fine".

On Site inspection will tell you alot more than what we can do from pictures. Good luck over there. I paid $6K for mine & it was a POS compared to what you have there.

Ben in Austin

 

Looks like a pretty solid truck from the pics. I like the idea that he has gotten 1300 miles on the driveline, that alone would give me a higher level of confidence in the truck. Jeep seats and an aluminum (IDIDIT, etc) steering column are also a plus. The body looks to be in good condition...hook up your trailer and take a drive over there. If it's as good as it looks then load it up, if not then you had a good road trip...stop and play some golf and enjoy the scenery.

 

YES, YOU SHOULD!!!!

Panel trucks are a breed of their own. They can be cumbersome to drive because it feels like you're a big tin can. Main think you want to check for, besides the body condition, is the workmanship on the front end, engine and rear end installations. Has the engine been rebuilt? Does the seller have receipts for all of the parts and work done? Who did the work? Check for any crack welds on the frame. Bring a flashlight and coveralls. By the way, finding the correct rear bumper could be a challenge. You can use that as a negotiating tactic as well. Remember, the more you find "wrong" with the truck, the better you can justify and explain your offer.

$8500 is a fair price for that truck if everythign is as good as the seller lists it. I agree with a $6k offer at first. If the truck is in good shape with not a lot of rot, $7-8k is a good price. Bring a trailer and a wad of cash to show the seller that you're serious. More times than not when I go to buy a parts truck and bring a trailer with me, I end up bringing the truck back with me.

Just for reference, I paid $5500 for my 52 Panel and $7k for the 51 Panel about seven years ago. Both were stock (or as close as possible). The 51 had a lot more rot than the seller described. It came from out of state and I didn't get it inspected. The 52 was in my backyard.

Oh, and I second about keeping the "patina". I would, however, sound proof the interior. It's very lound, and hot, inside because of all of the exposed metal.

The 52.




The 51.

 

I knew that 51Panelman would jump onto this thread!!!

Welcome to the forum...It is a cool panel & I hope it works out for you!

Dan

 

Thank you all for the feed back, the one bit of info I did not say was that I will have to sell off one of my other toys if I want this. I want to stay married. So the Harley or the Unimog. I might go out next weekend and kick the tires, AZ is about a 6 hour drive from Orange county Ca. I was thinking about taking the bike, how tall is the loading door? Could I put the motorcycle in the cargo area and drive the Ford home? Will I be happy with the panel truck as a daily driver? It will see a little hauling and towing, trips to the beach loaded with kids and I hope to have it fixed up enough not to get laughed at at my local Saturday show and shine.
thanks agian
Zack

 

How practical is the Unimog? I can ses the motorcycle being practical for a commute or a leisurely drive.

I can't get IE to bring up this post, but I think it has the measurement diagram that you need, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...anel-info.html

I'd hate to drive 6 hours one way just to tire kick and/or having to go back to pick it up another time. That's 12 more hours. I'd have to be serious about buying it in order to drive such a long distance. In my opinion, if you're serious, then drive and bring it back. Not sure how you can tie down the motorcycle inside.

 

Welcome to FTE... We are alike... I drove a 49 f1 in HS and have another one now... Looks like it has aftermarket gauges in a alum dash plate... I also see a tilt column... Does it have turn signals hooked up? What brand of new wiring harness did they use? Sounds like a great start of a new project.... I would also ask how the hoods held down? I don't see the handle in each nose opening... I would also ask if he has the rest of the trim... only looks like one spear and maybe the plate "FORD" trim? Side mirrors might be a little small too (hard to see)... I've seen this ad a couple of times...

 

He has the grill parts but that is it. How hard and how much will it be to find the missing trim and rear bumper? I have a side view and it is also missing the filler neck and door locks.
What other problem areas should I make sure I look at?

 

I have all of the missing parts that you list, except for the rear bumper. Rear bumper might be a while to find. You'll have to start posting wanted ads all over the internet.

Look at rust/rot/repair in the following areas: bottoms of front and rear doors, bottom of fenders where they join with the running boards, sill panels, floor (front and around inner wheelhouse on each side - rear section of floor is plywood), top roof seam edge, rear door hinges, rear sill panel, inside of rear wheelhouse areas, outside of hood on each side where the rear stiffener is attached from inside, and rain gutters.