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Hey guys,
I've recently been looking into picking up a 1956 f100 to restore. This would be my first restoration and I'm looking for advice on how to choose the right one. I've checked out mostly online postings since I haven't found many listings near N.Y.. My question is what should I be looking for when combing threw the listing or what questions should I ask the seller. Also what is a reasonable price range for a project truck.
One example of a truck I've been looking at is: http://m.ebay.com/itm/1956-Ford-F-100-Custom-cab-/152573224672?hash=item238612a6e0%3Ag%3AVwsAAOSw3gJ ZNFRl&_trkparms=pageci%253A1787a8cd-4bc0-11e7-9404-74dbd1809ed2%257Cparentrq%253A843ffffc15c0ab6ab42a 1828fff7ccce%257Ciid%253A1
Living in NY you are probably better off looking for a truck from a dry climate...like the one you have referenced. That said, I am leery of trucks that appear to be a conglomeration of miscellaneous parts from various donors. If a cab has a good roof, that is, no rust in the drip rails and a sound lower half...then it is worth considering. Rusted drip rails are a deal killer for me...too expensive to repair. The best advice I could offer is to start at the finish line and work back...what is your dream truck? What I mean by that is that if you want a bone stock restoration then you probably want a truck that is fairly complete and unmolested to start with. If you want a custom then many of the parts on a stock truck are not needed for your build...ie, custom chassis, driveline, interior, etc. Good luck with your project, lots of help here on the forum.
What you want out of the truck tends to evolve, most usually end up looking original to an untrained eye but with modern conveniences. Something that helped me was to picture a car lot that has every single combination you could imagine and you can have one for free, now walk around it and find which one you want.
'56 is a one off year, it has it's own special parts. Thankfully places like Mid-fifty exist and sell basically everything you will ever need. Course having original good parts always beats replacing something made to copy it 60 years later.
Some of what will make for a good build will depend on your skill level and what you enjoy, or your bank account. To pay someone to do the work will cost more than you will ever, ever, get out of it if you go to sell it. Everything can be learned, even a paint job isn't a hard thing just takes a little practice and knowledge.
Finding one, I would suggest posting a want ad on craigslist as you'll often get a much better deal on something because the person hasn't had to figure out everything they want from it and go through the effort of sell it. An app to watch craigslist is also a really good idea, I use craigshunter for Chrome. OfferUp.com is also good for finding something around your area.
When you do find one, post it on here with lots of pictures. Lot of good eyes on here and they can tell you every last thing about the truck.
If it doesn't have a title... there are ways but usually unless it's an extremely good deal it's best to walk away. I've seen people completely restore something, go to register it and find out it was stolen long ago and now the original owner gets it back for free and your SOL.
A good price... something to consider is you can ship a car across the country for about $1000. Find a truck that costs $7000 in your state for $4000 across country, you're up $2000 just to ship it. But buying that way requires a little more work. Flying out if you can is a good idea. Often members on here will help when they can.
Something else that comes to mind, don't get one that has a chopped top on a '56, especially if the windscreen isn't installed. The windscreen of a '56 is extremely difficult to do right on a chop. Enough where professionals usually don't even bother unless you're willing to pay way more than you'd want to.
'56 was the first year for 12v and turn signals. Don't be surprised if there is only one seat belt and no drivers side door lock. They were figuring things out in the 50s, the mid-late 60s was a lot more "modern" in how things where done. But things like 'through the floor' pedals are very cool.
If you've added up every dollar it's going to cost you... triple that number. Seriously. There are so many nickles and dimes that go unnoticed, heck when I painted my Mustang I spent $500 in SANDPAPER on the paint job.
And lastly, find something as complete as possible. And if you can, driveable. There are many things you may find you don't want to change once you actually drive it. Things like leaving the vent windows, a lot of people remove them for a cleaner look but they work awesome, especially with the hood intake.
Thanks for all the advice so far. I'll keep looking and reading into it. I think if I had to choose I want something close to original but with some modern ammenities.
Also I'm in Brooklyn N.Y.
Some good points above. Correction - There are no titles for vehicles 1972 or older in NY. Classics would only have a transferable registration.
You mentioned a stock appearing truck with modern amenities. That could mean a lot of different things. Need to decide what your "must haves" are. Some people only want safety factors such as power disc brakes and seat belts. Others want the full gamut: more power (engine/ transmission), maintenance (modern drivetrain), handling (power steering, subframe), ride (suspension), air conditioning, power windows, bucket seats, stereo system, etc.
If this is your first restoration, I'd combine your wish list with your abilities/ tools. Ie. What type of work will you do yourself and what work will you hire out? This may help you narrow down what type of project you are looking for. Example: If you don't have welding or mechanical ability, you may want a project that already has the subframe and engine you want.
A full restoration will take time and money - Lots of both! Sometimes it makes sense to buy the '56 that already has what you are looking for and make cosmetic changes (wheels, paint, interior, chrome, etc.) It really depends on your goals. I've seen a lot of projects abandoned (including one of my own!) due to lack of time, ran out/ spent too much money, too difficult/ frustration, worse condition than expected, life changes, lost storage, or another vehicle.
BTW - I'm located in Upstate NY. If it has to be a 1956, a quick search looks they range from $2,000 to $60,000 in the tri-state area. You can ship a truck from wherever, but it is better to look at one in person. (Depends on how far you want to travel.)
If you like a panel, there is a project in West Babylon. Pretty rust free. Currently doesn't run but has a used Straight 6, 223, with 3 speed on the column. $7,500 https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/6167985917.html
Like you, my '54 ten years ago was my first restoration. My only recommendation--get something drive-able! That way, the truck will tell you what you should work on next, and as long as you are driving it, it will keep you highly motivated daily in ways that a pile of non-moving parts never will (trust me on this, you'll see...)
It's the first and only thing i ever bought off Craigslist, yet is still my best purchase ever. (Well, other than my wife and kids, but I didn't get them on Craigslist...)
My only recommendation--get something drive-able! That way, the truck will tell you what you should work on next, and as long as you are driving it, it will keep you highly motivated daily in ways that a pile of non-moving parts never will (trust me on this, you'll see...)
Sounds like good advice. I don't want to get frustrated and lose interest.
The one in North Carolina looks pretty clean. Both front fenders are dented in. The box looks decent and you'd have to look at where the running board meets the rear fender (surface rust vs hole). Biggest question I have is what is the electrical tape/ duct tape on the driver's side - top and bottom of vent window, bottom corner of windshield.
Really depends on what you are looking for. The NC truck is good candidate for stock restoration with 272 Y-block. The Long Island one has an updated drivetrain. Other factor to consider is if you have a particular color in mind. I'd keep the NC factory colors. Long Island wouldn't hesitate to paint whatever color you wanted (even if it was a different stock '56 color that you like better).
Agree with Jerry. My 10+ restoration is still ongoing and not driveable yet. Got frustrated and bought my '54 F100 as a driver. I've been tempted to pull it all apart, but have limited my projects to ones that wouldn't impact its ability to be driven for a long period of time. Fixing things as I go has been much more manageable (yet still with frustration!) than the full restoration project. But then there are people on this board that seem to fly through a project without any problems.
I personally seen and drove the NY truck. I had a smile from ear to ear. It's a 4x4 using a 59 f100 front axle and the jeep 4.0 6. Cyl auto trans.
My friend Anthony owns it and he had it for sale at the supernats that's where I had the pleasure of driving it.
I personally seen and drove the NY truck. I had a smile from ear to ear. It's a 4x4 using a 59 f100 front axle and the jeep 4.0 6. Cyl auto trans.
My friend Anthony owns it and he had it for sale at the supernats that's where I had the pleasure of driving it.
How was the condition of the body? Just from picture it looks like dent in the rear fender (which would replace if don't use the side mounted spare); hood lip rust; bumper valance. Edit: See additional pictures in the ad. Looks like a dent in passenger rear fender; small hole in passenger side rocker; drilled holes in floor (but doesn't appear to be rust holes). Also has that custom rear bumper on it.
Again, to each their own. Might be a great project for someone who wants a cool fuel injected 4x4. If you don't like the drivetrain or want a 100% stock truck, I'd look elsewhere.
06-07-2017, 03:31 PM
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