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High Idle Mod

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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 10:53 PM
  #1  
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High Idle Mod

Anyone done this to their Excursion??? Do we have this wire(s)?? Haven't had a chance to look yet.

High Idle Mod
 
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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I did a write up w/ pics a few years ago. Search the X forum for "6.0l Excursion SEIC(high idle)mod" and it should come up. You have to add the trigger wire to the PCM connector, but it's not a big deal.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-not-easy.html

This is a link to a thread which contains more links to info you'll want.

You'll want to "subscribe" (thread tools -> subscribe"
to these threads so you can find them yourself next time more easily
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...gh+idle%29+mod
 
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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anybody ever find a way to do this to the v10 engines? ....... lucky diesel guys......
 
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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I have always wondered if using a aftermarket electronic servo controlled cruise control tied to the foot pedal and using a single resister to determine the speed setting would be a viable alternative for us guys with GAS engines.

something like this:

Audiovox 250-1316 Ultracruise II Universal Electronic Cruise/Speed Control This Cruise Control system by Audiovox is the more reliable and easier to install than vacuum operated units. It makes a great addition or replacement for an existing unit tha
 
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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hmmmm. thanks. I think i'll try that out. looks promising..
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 03:28 AM
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Apparently is is Made by Rostra Precision Controls and I guess Audiovox rebranded some and sold under their name.

Anyway, here is the correct manufacturers page for the control.

Universal Aftermarket Cruise Control by Rostra
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 03:55 AM
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Hahahah I get it now.


Aside from the nightmare of the installation. You would need a Timed signal source to go to the VSS (vehicle speed signal) input wire to "fool" it into thinking the vehicle is running (wheels turning) The frequency of that signal would determine the engine speed.

Since it says it takes a sine or square wave input, a simple circuit to produce the appropriate signal can be made easily. That circuit could have a potentiometer on the dash it to vary the frequency and then be able to have variable high idle RPM

Since it uses a tachometer signal to shut off the unit if the transmission is accidentally knocked into netral, you would leave that wire disconnected.


(never did like installing them due to the mechanicals. Just my weirdness, I guess.. I put one on my Motorcycle and it works good.)
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 04:03 AM
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Here are some examples of the kind of circuit:

RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Signal Generator with Pulse Width Modulation





Here is a electronic function generator kit that would do the job for 6 bucks and a few minutes of assembly:

Signal Generator Electronic Kit MK105




Just some ideas to start with....
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 04:04 AM
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Shoot. I almost forgot.

This is the installation/owners manual for that cruise control

http://www.rostra.com/manuals/250-1223Form4565E.pdf
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 07:22 AM
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Wow. Thanks very much. Makes it seem pretty easy with all the homework you did. Ill be doing this in the next couple of weeks. Ill keep posting when I get it done.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 09:04 AM
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Don't worry. there are still problems. The idle running away in to high rpm's without having a load on the engine is one of them. The vehicle going down the road is a load that causes a limit.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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Here is a simpler and cheaper version.


Get a electric door lock actuator or rear hatch actuator and mount it to the fenderwell, it needs alt least 3/4 to 1 inch movement. after all, we are really only looking to go to 1200 rpm or so.

Make up a cable bracket like the cruise control.


find a motorcycle cable to operate between the door lock actuator and the throttle cable end with a adjustment screw that is already on the motorcycle cables

Hook up the cable at the throttle end exactly like shown in the Magnavox instuctions The cable has to have enough free are (no sheeth) and slack to ensure no interference with normal throttle.
Use a dash switch to activate/deactivate a latching RELAY. wire up another relay to the Brake wire to disconnect the latching relay power if the brakes are depressed. (brake wire availabe at the connecter and harness for trailer controls)

Add another relay to disconnect power if the trans is anywhere but in park.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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