ive got zero volts from alternator. both have been duralast brand alternators and passed on the test machine before purchase

 

Sounds familiar, both of the ones I got passed the bench test before I took them from the store. I'd return them, get your money back and go get a brand new one and never have to look back.

I got this one: Powermaster 7078, Powermaster 1G Style Ford Alternators | Powermaster which was a 75Amp version so it put out a little more juice than stock but still wired up as original and didn't require a bigger regulator or other mods along with it.

Here's the install doc which has a couple things to test/verify in the System Test section if you haven't already. http://static.summitracing.com/globa...001_is_alt.pdf

Lastly - here is a wiring diagram I used to help ensure it was wired right to being with: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...or-wiring.html

and

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ine-issue.html


Good luck!!

 

So, after two batteries, and 2 alternators, and two voltage regulators, i started losing hope. so finally, i decided i was going to wire up a new harness for the charging system. as i'm peeling the factory electrical tape from the voltage regulator mounted on the front to the left ( if you are looking under hood), i found my problem. as the wiring harness crosses the cowl, i found a burnt wire. and what was that wire, why..., it was my voltage wire to point A on regulator. the wire would still ohm out, but would break connection as soon as a load was put on a wire. (sneaky little wire)
i cut back, added a fusable link, and ran the new wire to the voltage regulator, and a new clip in the connector. i also for good measure, added a grounding wire from the alternator grounding lug to the bolt behind the regulator.
i now have 14.2 volts at the battery while engine is running.