Hey there. My girlfriend has a honda prelude that uses engine oil. At least 1+ quarts every 1000 miles. Alldata calls for 5w30 or 10w30 so i do not want to go any thicker than that to risk blowing out engine seals and as well. Besides that winter is coming around. I did a oil change on it a little while back because no one did one on it for a while (not even sure about miles or anything.) Car has 120k miles. It was running synthetic but i put in conventional 5w30. I do not like to mix synthetic and conventional either. I was thinking about switching back to a good quality synthetic to see if it uses less oil with synthetic. Other wise for the price of oil it would not be worth it at all. I am about to service the pcv valve system on it to help remove blowby gas as this should help as well. I have had cars in the past that used engine oil so i would like to figure out if there is any difference. When it comes to a vehicle that burns engine oil i have seen some different results and some the same. I wish i could put 10w40 engine oil in this car but i doubt its recomended. Let me know what you think guys

 

Sounds like it's already to the point of no return using that much oil. Is it leaking or burning ? Honda valve seals are easy to replace. Synthetic is a no no for High mileage vehicles. There is a person who designed the Bars Leak stuff on this site for oil leaks and rear mains who said it swells the harden seals but. I would run 40w in it although once up to temp it all flows the same. Brings up a question, is that HighMileage oil even worth it and at what point ?

 

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If it's a mechanical issue that's causing it to burn oil it doesn't matter what you put in there, it's going to burn it. I wouldn't spend the extra money on synthetic for that motor.

 

A qt. every 1,000+ miles is not excessive, some mfg's say 1 qt. every 500 miles is acceptable on a NEWER engine! (Cadillac northstar v-8)

Leave it alone for now.

 

What? A quart every 1,000 is by no means normal for a Honda.

Do a wet/dry compression test. If the numbers go up wet then it's rings. If not, it's valve stem seals. Then you have to decide if it's worth it to fix it.

Until then, I wouldn't use anything but cheap dino oil.

 

As far as i know right now it is in fact the rings and also could be valve seats as well. The previous owner never changed the air filter, not sure they even changed the oil by the intervals either. The air filter would be a given for bad rings. When i pulled the air filter out it was.... well not so great. It was like a mouse nest in there just so very well covered through and through with crud. I have seen when behind the car following it that there is blue smoke coming out of the exhaust at times especially when the throttle is applied from an acelleration. I have seen absolutely no evidance of the car leaking oil. Although it could be though in small quantities. I have not measured how many miles it takes for it to burn a quart but i would think its around 1+ every 1000 miles or so. I know that oil viscousity will affect how oil resist being burned, as thicker oil would not pass the rings as easy. Sheer rating is a great way to help measure viscousity. A better quality oil is acually 10w30 as it holds up to that rating well. A worse quality oil will be advertised as 10w30 but it does not hold up to that mark or at least very well. Any dyno oil out there is pretty good stuff as long as it has the api oil donut. I have not added any oil additives because i do not belive in them any more seeming how everything a good quality oil needs should already be in the oil and it should not need any additives. Others of you out there believe other wise and there is nothing wrong with that. Im thinking that a oil that holds a better sheer rating would be much better at resisting oil burn off. I have seen other cars that go through this much engine oil including my fathers 2000 Saturn sc2. It has less that 100000 miles and it chooses to use a quart of oil every 2000 miles which does amaze me. The oil is changed every 3000 miles with good quality oil and a filter, and before we owned it was taken every time to a GM service center to service everything needed on the car no matter how big or small. If it was recomended in the book, it was done. I belive the car has 70k.
I appreciate your guys help. Let me know what you think. Thanks

 

I do plan on doing a compression test wet and dry when i can get ahold of a gauge. I am not going to be fixing the problem right now as i do not have the money to as well as the car needing other things. I know oil is $2 to $5 or more a quart but i have other things i need to pay for. Above that the worst part is there would be a vehicle down for the time being.

 

x2. Perhaps some oils will burn less. But youve got a bigger issue when your burning oil.

 

If I were using a qt per 1000 miles, I'd use the least expensive oil and keep adding till the engine goes kaput.

 

If you have to get it thru pollution inspection new synthetic doesn't show up as well, also go on a day when the humidity is real high, "raining." Heavy weight oil and a oil pan pad heater, for winter starts. BTW I tore down a 4 cylinder Nissan engine in my driveway, head rebuilt, new rings, bearing, and seals in a neighborhood where you weren't allowed to work on your car, block stayed in the car.

 

just a honda , drive it till it dies !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i have to agree just buy the cheap stuff , don't waste money on it unless you intend to keep it and fix it ..........