EBPV causing smoke?
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EBPV causing smoke?
So after reading a couple threads, I had unplugged the EBPV so it wouldn't malfunction while I was going down the road. Long story short, as of recently with it unplugged, I have noticed a slight whistling in the exhaust. It sounded similar to when the EBPV was plugged in only quieter. I plugged the EBPV back in and the whistiling is still faint but when I start it now, it seems to smoke considerably more than when it was unplugged. Is this just my imagination or could this be possible and if so why? ***Side note: I don't know if EBPV is the correct term. I am referring to the plug on the bottom side of the turbo.***
-Joseph
-Joseph
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Orrville, Ohio
Joseph,
EBPV is the correct term. It stands for Exhaust Back Pressure Valve and yes it is operated by the two conductor wire connection you describe. I guess it is possible that the EBPV is causing the whistling sounds you are hearing. The trucks I have driven in the past that had a bad EBPV had more of a whooshing sound than a whistle, but if it is only sticking part way closed, I guess it might sound like a whistle. I haven't had mine apart so I can't say whether or not there is any way for the EBPV to leak oil into the exhaust, but the system DOES use oil pressure to close the valve, so I guess it is possible.
If you're handy with the wrenches, it might be time to yank the turbo, replace the pedestal o-rings and eliminate the EBPV all together.
EBPV is the correct term. It stands for Exhaust Back Pressure Valve and yes it is operated by the two conductor wire connection you describe. I guess it is possible that the EBPV is causing the whistling sounds you are hearing. The trucks I have driven in the past that had a bad EBPV had more of a whooshing sound than a whistle, but if it is only sticking part way closed, I guess it might sound like a whistle. I haven't had mine apart so I can't say whether or not there is any way for the EBPV to leak oil into the exhaust, but the system DOES use oil pressure to close the valve, so I guess it is possible.
If you're handy with the wrenches, it might be time to yank the turbo, replace the pedestal o-rings and eliminate the EBPV all together.
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That is on my long list of things to get done before spring. I pretty much only use the truck for towing my travel trailer and camping is just about done for the year so that is going to free up time. Now only if it would free up some money.
How do you know if/when a turbo should be rebuilt?
-Joseph
How do you know if/when a turbo should be rebuilt?
-Joseph
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
That is on my long list of things to get done before spring. I pretty much only use the truck for towing my travel trailer and camping is just about done for the year so that is going to free up time. Now only if it would free up some money.
How do you know if/when a turbo should be rebuilt?
-Joseph
How do you know if/when a turbo should be rebuilt?
-Joseph
As far as the turbo rebuild, all you really have to do to determine whether it needs to be rebuilt is to pull the intake tubing off so you can see the inducer. Inspect is for chips and nicks. Also push and pull in/out and up/down on the wheel. A little in/out movement is okay but it should not be excessive. Edit: My mistake, no in/out play should be present in the wheel. Any up down movement is a good indication that you're getting close to time to rebuild. If the wheel strikes the housing in any direction, it is time. The rebuild on the PSD turbo is pretty inexpensive if you do it yourself. Not a lot to it either. Costs about $100 for the rebuild kit. And if the wheel is chewed up, Riffraff is your friend there as well.
Last edited by DIYMechanic; Sep 29, 2011 at 07:35 AM. Reason: Wrong Info
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I guess I didn't realize it could be done without deleting the pedestal which was the money portion of it. I will take a look at that thread to see if I can't get it taken care of cheaply. As for the turbo rebuild, I will inspect that as well while I am at it. I looked at the riffraff rebuild kit and wheel should I need a new one. It doesn't seem like there is too much to the turbo should I need to do that. I was intimidated when I first bought a diesel truck because everyone made it sound like they were such a pain to maintain, seems to me they just cost a little more to maintain but seem much simpler to work on for the most part. Thanks for your help guys.
-Joseph
-Joseph
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From: Orrville, Ohio
Yeah, my bad. No in and out, a little up and down is okay. Looks like it is time to get that next cup of coffee! Thanks for straightening me out. I knew that didn't sound right when I typed it.
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Hey guys, I would like to jump in here as I am having an issue that seems to be related. I seem to have a buffeting from the engine. Idle is fine but going down the road I get that buffeting. I also noticed during colder weather that I get the whistling or wooshing sound when at a certain RPM, like the EBPV opens and closes even when warmed up. Regardless, I would like to delete the EBPV(easy method). How does the butterfly come out, and should I remove the turbo to do this? 240,000 miles, 96 PSD
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Plankinton, SD
Here is some options on the ebpv delete. I did what gobstopper did. You can buy a new pedestal I think from Clay at riffraff with no ebpv.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=ebpv+removal
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=ebpv+removal
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Here is some options on the ebpv delete. I did what gobstopper did. You can buy a new pedestal I think from Clay at riffraff with no ebpv.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=ebpv+removal
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=ebpv+removal
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
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From: Plankinton, SD
If I remember right you need to remove the turbo, take exhaust housing off, drill out the rivets and remove the butterfly valve and install a pipe plug. It's been a couple years since I did mine and my tymar downpipe came with instructions on how to do it.
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