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my hubs are leaking around the cap/dial area. i bought a hub rebuild kit and there isn't much to it just two aprox 3" rubber O-rings, two 3" metal rings, and two 1 1/2" metal snap rings. doesn't look much anyone installed one of these before not sure if this will solve my problem?.
thanks
scott
Do you have Warn hubs (will be so marked) or Ford hubs (have a red plastic ****)?
they're warn, got the real gold *****(maybe brass) and say warn on them. took a closer look and oil may be leaking between the cap and the thing it bolts to. i did see an O-ring between the cap and hub(?) that may be the culprit. any advice on how to get the cap off? i took the small bolts out and pried on the side off the cap a bit with a flat edge screw driver. the cap is a little loose on one side but tight as heck on the other. didn't want to pry too hard on it so i'm stuck for now till i figure out how to get the cap off.
they're warn, got the real gold *****(maybe brass) and say warn on them. took a closer look and oil may be leaking between the cap and the thing it bolts to. i did see an O-ring between the cap and hub(?) that may be the culprit. any advice on how to get the cap off? i took the small bolts out and pried on the side off the cap a bit with a flat edge screw driver. the cap is a little loose on one side but tight as heck on the other. didn't want to pry too hard on it so i'm stuck for now till i figure out how to get the cap off.
thanks
scott
If you have all the scews holding the hub in it should come out. Is it damaged or scared on the edge anyplace. Crud gets built up around the edge and makes it hard to get out but it will come. Just keep working on it. You might want to check the axel vent to make sure it is not plugged up may cause internal pressure if it is this could result in leaks.
Its simple, just take it off you will figure it out. You can't really screw it up. You need snap ring pliers to take it off, so don't bang it it with a hammer or anything when you can't get it off. Thats what the metal ring is, its a big snap ring.
In the event (very unlikely) that you screw it up, you can just buy new hubs.
as a matter of fact buzz the cap does have a healthy scrape on one side. if it's supposed to pop off i'll keep working on it. 63 f100 i can't see a snap ring yet looks like the cap should just pull off easily with the screws removed but i'll check again tonight.
also going to see if the driver side will just pop off if it does i know i have a damaged cap. now that i think about it i probably do have a damaged one because that same side is the one leaking, i saw the scrape when i went to take it off but didn't think it looked that bad.
That could be your problem. Seems to me these hubs where very susceptable to hub damage as they had skiny wheels with skinny tires back in the day. What Im trying to say is that the hubs on these trucks where very exposed to hard strikes from solid objects skirting the wheel and contacting the hub that stuck out quite noticeably from their old wheel and tire combo. Ive read a few articles where if you do alot of off roading you might want to run a little wider rim and tire combo so that when you look at the hub it will be contained inside the wheel and tire outside surface so that it is somewhat protected from damage due to solid objects contacting it.If you dont do alot of serious offroading its probably not a big concern.
i can see where a guy could whack the hubs pretty easily looks like they stick out a bit farther than most pbly like you say because of the skinny tires on it. if one of the caps is bad i can get new ones but would prefer to find some good originals as they are shaped different and i want to stay original factory if possible. i'm also trying to stay with skinny tires to keep the original look but as for offroading worse thing i might bump the hubs into is a cow. long day today hopefully tomorrow i can pry one off
as a matter of fact buzz the cap does have a healthy scrape on one side. if it's supposed to pop off i'll keep working on it. 63 f100 i can't see a snap ring yet looks like the cap should just pull off easily with the screws removed but i'll check again tonight.
also going to see if the driver side will just pop off if it does i know i have a damaged cap. now that i think about it i probably do have a damaged one because that same side is the one leaking, i saw the scrape when i went to take it off but didn't think it looked that bad.
thanks
Did you ever get that locking hub off that wouldnt budge? I noticed that someone said you need to remove a snapring. Those are down inside after you get the outer hub off. You will also need a spanner wrench desighed for the spanner lock nuts that are inside of the hub housing. If you are just replacing the hubs I dont think you will have to worry about the lock spanners and snaprings.
Did you ever get that locking hub off that wouldnt budge? I noticed that someone said you need to remove a snapring. Those are down inside after you get the outer hub off. You will also need a spanner wrench desighed for the spanner lock nuts that are inside of the hub housing. If you are just replacing the hubs I dont think you will have to worry about the lock spanners and snaprings.
yep i finally got time to work on it and actually drove it around yesturday to check it out. i shouldn't admit this but the reason my cap wouldn't come off is i missed one of the bolts when i was taking them out (in my own defense i can say lost my bifocals so i'm wearing a back pair of glasses till the new ones come in). anyway looked like the rubber o-ring was all that was bad so i returned my $44.00 rebuild kit, went to the john deere store, guy at the counter got me a couple o-ring's that where close for a couple bucks, put them on and everything is fine. cheap and easy for once.