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Btw...I peeled a tad of the shrink tubing back, and the actual fuselink is good.....The voltage seems about .30v higher, there, than at the battery its' self....
I took the grounds loose today, cleaned them well, and coated them with Dielectric grease....
Cleaned the battery terminals, the exposed wire, etc...And coated those with Dielectric grease.....
Started the truck, and it appeared to charge for a bit, no change with throttle position though....
It started up and charged at ~13.75-13.60v....
Then, it drops and holds steady at 13.50v....Every so often, it'd flicker up to 13.52v.....
It held that for the 10 minutes I let it idle.....Ao I honestly, just don't know...Seems to be charging now, yet it has no affect, whether it's Idling, or revving....
The voltage regulator senses the load and adjusts the output. If there is no load the output will remain static. The VR not only increases output on demand, it also prevents overcharging.
The voltage regulator senses the load and adjusts the output. If there is no load the output will remain static. The VR not only increases output on demand, it also prevents overcharging.
I knew it controlled everything......The overcharging, etc....
It's still charging ATM....$13.50 v.......I'm happy...LOL
You need to check to see that your ignition power wire to the alternator regulator is OK - if you don't have 12V to the regulator to power the field windings, you will not get any charge. Do a search on alternator here, many people have recently posted the wiring diagrams which show exactly what wire and what color it is.
I did a search and found this. I was wondering if the same applies to my '84?s
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.