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Best I can tell, its magic stopping-stuff! Lol. Great trip home (~1000mi ) except for Nashville at rush hour... Seriously, I did 50-0mph over and over again forever getting thru there. I actually smelled HOT brakes once and I thought I finally overdid it - but it was the F350 with a GN horse trailer in front of me!
I would say any other pads I've ever used woulda warped the rotors in those conditions. Any of you who still think 'rotors' are the problem, really need to try a good set of brake pads! Btw, OE brakes were OK and they did last a loong time - but I'd rather stop FASTER than change brake pads less often.
Also, the EBC pads have a 'break-in' coating that helps prep 'old' rotors - if your rotors are not warped, just throw these on (and bed-in per instructions) and roll. FWIW, turning these rotors seldom yields lasting results...
I have ART rotors and pads. I had the powerslots and hawks on my X and in 8000 miles, the rotors were junk. The ART rotors and pads have been on my X now for over 3 years and just had new ball joints replaced today because of crap MOOG ball joints lasting less than 20,000 miles, and the rotors and pads are still great.
Before my ART stuff, I had the auto zone stock rotors and pads on. The truck was down right scary to drive. It didnt want to stop. I had em on there for less than 2 months.
i have the ebay kit ( four slotted and drilled rotors and pads for 300 shipped ) and well she was a familt suv but right now she is dooing duty with my friends towing company towin a big fooken enclosed trailer ( holds 8 full size motorcycles) no fadding no warping . have put 30,000 miles on the kit and so far there awesom .. and a great way to save ALOT of $$$$ i ma not the only one running them there are a few of us running them on our excursions ... ps.s i liked them so much im running ebay rotors on my motorcycle .. from the same company
I have found a couple truths as I've negotiated the internet over the years. One is that the more time and $$$ a guy spends on a particular product or 'mod' - the more ferociously that person is likely to defend the advertised claims of said product or mod. Second, if a person finds a 'cheap' version or some other work-around of the 'same mod' - they are equally as likely to tout its praises. These claims often require no scientifically measured benefit to be propagated as 'facts'.
If ya don't choose wisely - at least make choices that make ya feel good!
I have found a couple truths as I've negotiated the internet over the years. One is that the more time and $$$ a guy spends on a particular product or 'mod' - the more ferociously that person is likely to defend the advertised claims of said product or mod. Second, if a person finds a 'cheap' version or some other work-around of the 'same mod' - they are equally as likely to tout its praises. These claims often require no scientifically measured benefit to be propagated as 'facts'.
If ya don't choose wisely - at least make choices that make ya feel good!
Sellers can and do say anything to make a buck which is why I just look at reviews or comments from the people that did but from them. Advertising means almost nothing to me. They could have eliminated all the TV ads I saw since the fifties and it wouldn't have made a difference to them. They could have saved the money and I wouldn't have to look at them.
After scouring threads till my eyes bled, i ended up with NAPA Ultra premium rotors and hawk pads.
A compromise that has been flawless.
I have had a set of standard Bendix rotors ($80 total for 2 fronts) and Hawk LTS pads ($75 total for front set) on the front of my Ex since 2008...no problems at all...I still have original OEM rotors and pads on rear.
Based on my own experience...I would personally not spend the extra $$$ on high end rotors...simply put better quality pads on...just my $0.02 from my own experiences...
BTW...I tow a 9000# 35' tip to tail travel trailer.
I took a chance on the Brakemotive Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and pads. Rotors and pads for all for corners for $225.95 on ebay. Regardless of any theories about the money one puts into a part, I simply like stuff that works well. I have 7,000 miles on this setup with no cracked rotors and no noticeable pad wear. I've towed 3,000-10,000lbs (six different vehicles on a car hauler) probably 300-400 miles. I have had no problems, but then again I do drive my Ex like a truck...and you should too . I do a lot of coasting and very little hard braking. And my trailer has excellent brakes.
I used to trumpet cryo treated rotors (esp. Powerslots) because they were such a huge improvement over the stock rotors, and back in the day (around 5 years ago) the cryo treated rotors were the only rotors known to absolutely cure the rotor shudder/warped feeling caused by the cementite build-up.
But, the past year or so of reading others posts, I've been convinced that a good quality rotor coupled with a good quality pad will give the same benefits as the cryo treated rotors and Hawk pads I've always recommended. The problem is, which rotor and pad is a sure bet, like the cryo'd rotors?
Diligent searching in these threads will help anyone quickly ascertain which rotors and pads will be just as good as the cryo treated rotors and Hawk pads.
The slotted, cryo treated Powerslots on my Ex have been turned twice now. The next time I have to do the front brakes, I'll need new rotors. Not sure which one's I'll get, but I've always wanted to get EBC pads, I just couldn't justify the extra coin for them over the Hawk LTS pads.
Originally Posted by Joemz9
My take is do not buy slotted or cross drill. You can not turn them...
Dunno why you made this statement, but any competent technician can turn any rotor, whether it slotted, drilled, or cryo treated.
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