Front Rotor Questions
Is there any consensus as to a brand of rotor being better than another?
I expect there may be conflicting opinions, and thus the follow-up questions:
Does it matter that the pads and rotors be from the same brand/manufacterer?
What should I make sure I do to minimize the risk of the problem recurring?
Thank You for your opinions in advance.
My theory is that the cheaper pads wear out faster but are easier on the rotors.
I dont like the pads with a lot of metalic compound in them.
I do all my automotive work myself and pads are so easy to replace, I dont mind doing it a little more often.
One thing to consider though is to check your breaks often because when you hear a grinding noise thats your wear indicators scratching against the rotor let that go on too long and your rotors will have to be reground or turned to restore the original flat unnicked surface.
As for rotors even if they don't wear beyond minimum specs because of the material (which costs extra) they will probably warp making them just as useless as the cheap ones that would have worn.
Below are the prices I paid on my car and not my Aero since I can't remember those prices its been at least 1 1/2 years and I just did my car a few months ago.
I would pay anywhere between $20-40 dollars per rotor.
As for the pads the cheapest I've seen them for one of my small Toyotas was $43.00. Per set per wheel.
Also be sure to check your wear indicators and pad clips for breakage or rust and replace them as necessary.
I made the mistake of using cheap pads and rotors on my wifes Taurus, not only did they leave all kinds of brake dust all over the wheels they didn't last 6 months and that was highway miles. The rotors also were so worn they couldn't be turned. I replaced them with a quality rotor and ceramic pads, they last much longer and produce very little dust.
As for the rotors I replaced my F-150's with the cheapest I could get. major mistake. Within 5 months they had warped, a buddy had the same thing happen on his F-150.
Bottom line is if your keeping the vehicle I think it pays to use quality parts.
I got premium rotors and pads and I'm a happy camper now. It cost more up front but can save a lot of aggravation down the road.
After I get my Aero in the next month, the first thing I am going to do is replace the front brakes with After Market performance Ranger/Explorer Cross-drilled rottors. That will help prevent warpage and increase stopping power with less fade. Brakes are the second most import part on the vehicle (following tires,) that protect you and yours. Don't go cheap.
Spend the money you are saving doing it yourself on buying the best you can get.
one tip on reducing rotor warpage, use a torque wrench, it is a must on aluminum rimed vehicles.
.As for my Aero I got the reciepts out since I was curious now it cost me $95.00 a rotor and $90 for a set of pads OEM.
If your on a tight budget of course you will have to go lower but if you have the cash and plan to keep the vehicle unlike my car
.I plan to keep my Aero for many years so I put decent rotors and pads in.
One thing is a high price tag doesn't always mean quality this depends on the pads material the rotor material or if the rotor is drilled etc OEMs are ok.
While I'm sure some people have a firm position on this I find drilled rotors a waste since I replace them every 3 to 4 years when they warp anyways.
Ok if you have a performance car get the drilled rotors but if its a family van that drives on the highway and around town save your money and get something for a decent price but don't get race caliber pads and rotors.
Plus I don't mind changing them every couple of years since the vehicle is a 96 with 45k miles on it its obvious it doesn't get that many miles on it anyways however I check them every year for warpage with a dial indicator.
If your vehicle gets more rigorous use then I'd invest in more expensive brake rotors and pads but then again no rotor or pad you get is forever so don't go too cheap or too expensive.
Last edited by krankshaft; Feb 1, 2005 at 07:11 PM.
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The P.O. was no longer able to drive unfortunately due to RP (going blind in his early early 40's, and he offered to give me the van, which is another story.
After driving the van about 10K miles, I needed to do the inner tie rods and noticed the pads seeming worn, so I put on new Autozone Ceramic pads and had the rotors turned. At this point I don't know if the rotors were directional but I didn't make a note of which side they came from.
Shortly after doing the brakes, they started vibrating when applying the brakes above 45mph. I'm not sure whether I put them on backwards, or the pad/rotor interaction was a problem.
One other question: Is there a big difference between the directional or different parts for driver/passenger side(Bendix, Raybestos, Autozone Premium made by someone else) or non-directional (cheaper brands, Wagner)?
Yes I knew better but it was just supposed to be a temporary sorta repair.
Ok if you have a performance car get the drilled rotors but if its a family van that drives on the highway and around town save your money and get something for a decent price but don't get race caliber pads and rotors.
If you live in the part of the country where it is pretty flat and/or don't tow, I would stick with regular rotors, they will work fine.
As far as cross-drilled rotors go, I would be careful who makes them. Drilling rotors creates stress risers, and poorly drilled rotors can be much weaker than plain rotors. In any case, they will not last as long as properly cooled non-drilled rotors. If you want more power and strength, get the rotors that have the shallow slots cut into them.
This was for a 2wd 4.0 L
Last edited by Aftrmidnite; Feb 2, 2005 at 11:13 AM.





