Anyone Measure Diff Temps?
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Elder User
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Anyone Measure Diff Temps?
Do any of you guys have differential temp gauges?
I ask because I'm about to wire brush the rust off my stock 2005 F250 rear differential cover and want to apply a rust converter product. I have a spray can of Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer that I'd like to use as a primer, but the instructions state not to apply it to surfaces that eill exceed 200 F.
So, how hot do our differentials run?
The instructions also state ot to apply to galvanized metals. The diff covers can't be galvanized, right? Not when they rust like they do.
I ask because I'm about to wire brush the rust off my stock 2005 F250 rear differential cover and want to apply a rust converter product. I have a spray can of Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer that I'd like to use as a primer, but the instructions state not to apply it to surfaces that eill exceed 200 F.
So, how hot do our differentials run?
The instructions also state ot to apply to galvanized metals. The diff covers can't be galvanized, right? Not when they rust like they do.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
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From: Southern Colorado
My diff runs about 135F on the highway, not towing. I doubt many would exceed 200F. The OEM cover is not galvanized. The alloy covers that Ford used starting in 2006 or so are fairly inexpensive ($70 or so) compared to the aftermarket ones.
I think you'd be fine with your Rustoleum product, or just use phosphoric acid, and then spray it with black paint, cold galv. compound, whatever you like.
I think you'd be fine with your Rustoleum product, or just use phosphoric acid, and then spray it with black paint, cold galv. compound, whatever you like.
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Thank you. I thought it would be under 200F.
My plan is to coat the OEM cover for now. I'll replace it with the factory aluminum cover when I change the fluid.
I just finished removing the loose scale with a wire brush (used with power drill). I was surprised that the cover was in good shape. There was light surface rust, but 60% of the paint was still on the cover. The dirt made it look like the rust was pretty bad.
I guess what the Wyoming Department of Transportation told me was true: They don't salt the roads and use a chemical that is harmless to metal. (The City of Cody spreads sand at city intersections with about 2% salt to keep it from clumping). After five winters, there's not one speck of rust anywhere on my truck except the diff cover.
My friends who live on the beaches of Southern California had more rust issues from the salt in the ocean air.
My plan is to coat the OEM cover for now. I'll replace it with the factory aluminum cover when I change the fluid.
I just finished removing the loose scale with a wire brush (used with power drill). I was surprised that the cover was in good shape. There was light surface rust, but 60% of the paint was still on the cover. The dirt made it look like the rust was pretty bad.
I guess what the Wyoming Department of Transportation told me was true: They don't salt the roads and use a chemical that is harmless to metal. (The City of Cody spreads sand at city intersections with about 2% salt to keep it from clumping). After five winters, there's not one speck of rust anywhere on my truck except the diff cover.
My friends who live on the beaches of Southern California had more rust issues from the salt in the ocean air.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,215
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From: WV
That's about what mine runs normally as well.
I had a longish (~150mi) stretch of all interstate driving when we went to TN last summer and sustaining 70mph for that far, it crept up to the 160 range by the time I got there.
I had a longish (~150mi) stretch of all interstate driving when we went to TN last summer and sustaining 70mph for that far, it crept up to the 160 range by the time I got there.
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Stingray42
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Oct 24, 2003 06:27 PM
