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1999 PSD Hpop ?

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Old 09-19-2011, 09:52 PM
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1999 PSD Hpop ?

So hears the deal fellar i know has a 99 psd, im not sure if its early or late. Anyways it died on him a while back, had a guy look at it and determined it was the hpop, he replaced camsensor just to be sure. Still does not run. The mechanic quoted him 3 grand to do the hpop, that sounds outrageous to me, mechanic also said it was internal. I know where the hpop is located on the front in the valley. My question is how much for a reman or new hpop and what does it involve to change. Also is there a test i can run to verify hpop is bad? Thanks, Chad.
 
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:02 PM
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Check oil psi. Hpop is easy to swap out,pretty cut n dry. It's all right there,and there are a couple threads on here that will give you step by step instructions on how to do it. Reguardless I would put a L99 pump in it,the 17*.
 
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:34 PM
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You could test the IPR duty cycle % against ICP pressures seen, I would venture to say its not likely the HPOP, usually IPR or ICP related, has he disconnected the ICP sensor to see if it will start without it plugged in?

In the event it is the HPOP, don't jump to that conclusion yet, but Clay has the OEM pump for $500 here Riffraff Diesel: Bosch 17° HPOP
 
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:26 AM
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Just replaced mine. My injector pressure would drop to the 400 range when hot and die and the duty cycle was over 60%. Purchased a new pump from a place out of Memphis for $389. New pump holds over 3200psi and about 5% duty cycle. Takes a couple of hours to pull the old and put in the new just because of all the other stuff you need to remove to make it easier to get out.
 
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:00 PM
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Ok i will check into the icp and what not gotta learn either way. Thanks.
 
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:00 PM
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Mine stoped on me a year ago or so. Had it towed to the stealership and they told me the same thing for about the same price maybe a little cheaper. Anyway I took it back home hooked up all the crap they left unhooked pulled the IPR out cleaned it up and put it back in and have been driving it ever since. Took probably less than an hour and part of a can of gum out. I didnt even replace the O rings (just cause I did not have them and needed it back together). After I got it started back up I checked the HPOP pressure with the AE and it was fine.
Sad part is If I let them change the HPOP they would have probably replaced the IPR and I would have never known the diffrence.
If nothing else it is a real cheap thing to check out.

Joe
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:34 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I am gonna check out he IPR today. Thought i might hook scan tool and see if i can see any pressure readings while im cranking. I checked my 95 psd out last nite, it ran between 500 and 600psi at the IPR and idle.
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 07:14 PM
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Ok looked at the pickup, unplugged IPR and still did not fire. Took oil line off, it pumps oil when i crank it, about 8 oz in 5 seconds of craking. Looks like there is some mettalic flakes in the oil i get. My scan tool doesnt tell me crap about hpop pressure, gonna have to borrow my neigbors. Is it possible to watch the pressure at hpop while cranking?
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:06 PM
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Unplugging the IPR is not going to do anything, hopefully you mean unplugging the ICP sensor. Yes HPOP pressure can be watched, look for ICP pressure or Injector control pressure.
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:12 PM
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Yes look for ICP and duty cycle. The ICP is the pressure. If it builds above 500 psi it should fire. $3000 that guy is on crack. I changed mine earlier in 45 min about the 4th time I've done it. Shouldn't take more the a few hours if your handy with tools.

Beat me too it.
 
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:09 AM
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Ok Thanks again guys, gonna still get a different scan tool, watch for ICP and hopefully it is too low so that will tell me it is the hpop.
 
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:19 AM
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Make sure the batteries ore up also. Low voltage will cause no start also. I would never pay $3000.oo to repalce the HPOP, its a hold up for that price.
Chet
 
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:26 PM
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Thats exactly what i thought! The batteries are low now, but when it died it was running and he hadnt had any problems before. He just started it went to leave the shop and caput, it died and hasnt ran since. It has been sitting for awhile now so i am charging the batteries good so i will have full amps to work with. Im almost sure it is the hpop i just want to confirm before i dive in, also i want to learn as much about these rigs because i now have one and am quite interested.
 
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:23 PM
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Here is some helpful information if you can get a quality scanner to perform some diagnostics.

Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Greg, or anyone for that matter,

Here's some very good trouble shooting info. It was a "No Start Thread"

Originally posted by Dave (Golfer) on PSN 01-20-2010 Thank you Dave

"its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously. (Meaning the HPOP)

I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.

If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (1500-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

i the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...

I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...

any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?

holler if you need help troubleshooting.

take care~ Dave"

Here's the LINK to the entire thread.
 
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:27 PM
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A sticking IPR can cause these symptoms. It was an easy fix. I was told that it is very rare that an HPOP would quit all of a sudden like that. If you can pull the IPR and take it apart spray it all down with some good carb cleaner make sure it is moving freely and put it back in. Definetly worth a try.
I am sure it was well over $2k that the stealership quoted me when this happend. about an hour and part of a can of gumout is all it ended up costing me.
Just my 2cents.
Joe
 


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