pre winter checkup. 56K WARNING
passanger side outer tie rod damp, coverd in gunk.

inner tie rod. gunk removed. looks like grease escaped also

left axle arm pivot bushing.

sway bar linkage. looks like alot of rust. sandblast and reinstall?

swaybar bushing look ok

front body mounts. look rotted and rusted

spring support starting to rot away

other side i think this is bad. frame looks rotted through?!

drvers side inner tie rod. looks wet

tie rod link. looks REALLY rusted

drivers side tie rod. also greasy

i think this was the drivers side lower ball join looks ok

drivers side steering knuckle upper joint assembly.

drivers side radius arm bracket. could use a sandblast and paint

drivers side radius arm. same as above

i think this was the body mount drives side by the door looks ok.

inside of the radius arm

front axle u join. sorry bad pic. prob needs to be replaced. not sure if the leak is from the shaftseal or somewhere else

looks like brake fluid leaking somwhere near the rear abs module

pasanger side front shaft prob need a new oil seal in the housing

trans very wet. i believe its the seal between the transfer case and the trans

ujoint front drive shaft. looks ok

radius arm bracket and bushing passanger side..

passanger side radius arm and axle arm assembly. look ok

passanger side ball joint also looks ok

gotta tighted my oil pan nut

gawd trans is coverd in tranny fluid

passanger side leaf spring front

leaf springs

rear driveshaft ujoint

leaf spring shackle? dont look too bad. sandblast and repaint

leafs look whimpy. perhaps i could add a few or just replace the whole pack?

ford 8.8 leaking at the cover gasket will replace

whats this?! OH GAWD. gas leak passanger side gas tank. any ideas?

drives side leaf spring mount. again loooks ok

drivers side springs. there is nothing in the bed

drives side front spring mount. will clean and paint

bad pic. rear sway bar ?

drivers side rear sway bar? bushings look nice

bushing look ok here also

arg another bad pic. ujoin rear axle. looks ok, but still want to replace

rear driveshaft again front ujoint- looks ok but will replace

I have already installed new warn manual lockout in the front along with new inner and outer wheel bearings.
I have new f350 springs and the complete energysuspension bushing kit for the truck.
so heres the plan.
install new front coil springs
upper front spring seats sandblast paint replace if necessary
radius arms and radius arm brackets sandblast and paint
new radius arm bushings
replace drivers side axle pivot busing
replace passanger side axle pivot bushing
front axle housing new oil seals
front axle new gasket for cover
new tie rods inner and outer
sandblast and paint tie rod parts that are rusty
drives side front ujoint x1
passanger side ujoint x2
front drive shaft ujoints x2
rear driveshaft ujoints x2
trans oil pan gasket
oil seal between trans and t-case
new body mount bushings x6
new rear springs bushings x6
clean rear spring shackels. replace if neccessary.
new gas tank - larger capacity.
new fuel pump necessary?
new fuel filter necessary?
have alignment done to adjust camber due to taller springs
well thats all i can think of right now.
AM I CRAZY? the trucks is a 96 and has almost 200,000 miles on it. I love my truck, but michgan salt is doin a number on her.
the body panels are rotted bad by the rear wheel arches. besides that, it looks "ok" on the outside..
Maybe it's time to take a vacation to SoCal or Arizona and find a rust free truck that is worth fixing mechanically. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do!
To answer your question though, yes you are crazy. Everything on your truck is leaking some sort of oil and the rest is rotting away.
Must say though, have you never looked under your truck before? The steering linkage should look "wet" as you say or it won't last long. Grease is good.
You can't simply look at a ball joint and tell if its OK, you need to jack up the front axle and check for play.
Don't relpace U-joints unless they actually are bad.
I would guess your front axle U-joints are dried up, they look like they've turned orange with rust dust (thats what mine do when they dry out), which means they're junk.
The leaf spring shackles look like they've been replaced already. The leaf hangers that rivet to the frame can look just dandy, then smack the bottom of them with a hammer and it will probably show you the hole that you didn't previously notice. They have a cup design that holds in road salt, and many trucks will break these hangers, with the end result of a leaf spring putting a hole in the bed of the truck.
The leaking fuel tank, they're about $100 new, I always replace the pump at the same time, another $140 or so. These rot out under the tank strap, and I wouldn't bother trying to patch, cus it will just rot through somewhere else next week.
Another vote for driving her as is. Grease up every grease zerk on the truck, keep the fluids all full, keep air in the tires, and wear your seat belt.
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at least that's what i'd do. i have upper michigan (above the bridge) standards on my vehicles so that truck looks a LOT better than some of the sh** bombers i see rolling around my area.
if you want to keep the rust from spreading, you could always buy a few cans of this stuff and hope for the best over the winter months:
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-5.html
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Remember to check the brakes!!
Not to start a bandwagon here but i agree. I am happy when it is ONLY surface rust. If there is just a few holes it ok, LOL.
Yeah i would do what blkF250HD said and just give here a good washing and keep an eye on it over a few days to pin point problems.
I am in the process of stripping, wire wheeling, and painting my frame and suspension components before winter. Just be prepared for 10 times the work you initially figured it would take. (although maybe you don't plan to pull the engine/ bed/ tanks like i did to gain access to the frame.)









gopher