Patching panels, have questions.
Patching panels, have questions.
I've got a few rust out spots that I want to throw some new metal into, as well as one big ugly dent, and some factory trim holes. I want to cut out the bad and put in patches instead of entire panels.
Should the patches be placed inside of the existing panel (or outside)?
For the bottoms of my doors and fenders I was thinking inside.
What's a good method for the bottom - rear cab corners (no obvious access from the rear)?
I've also got a large dent on the passenger front corner of the hood. I've got a banged up donor hood with that corner being perfect. I do think that should go inside, right?
As far as bonding the panels in, who has had experience with body adhesive? If not that, another option I have is silver soldering (I've use it on firearms to great success). I don't have access to a MIG welder.
As far as filler (as needed after metal is replaced): What do you guys think will work best, JB Weld, Bondo Gold, or Marglass? (I'm thinking JB Weld)
Should the patches be placed inside of the existing panel (or outside)?
For the bottoms of my doors and fenders I was thinking inside.
What's a good method for the bottom - rear cab corners (no obvious access from the rear)?
I've also got a large dent on the passenger front corner of the hood. I've got a banged up donor hood with that corner being perfect. I do think that should go inside, right?
As far as bonding the panels in, who has had experience with body adhesive? If not that, another option I have is silver soldering (I've use it on firearms to great success). I don't have access to a MIG welder.
As far as filler (as needed after metal is replaced): What do you guys think will work best, JB Weld, Bondo Gold, or Marglass? (I'm thinking JB Weld)
cut out the rusted areas and put a new piece in the same size as the cut out piece. spot weld the piece in. spot weld every 1/2 inch. let cool and spot weld again. do this until seam filled. grind weld flush with panel and then skim coat with bondo type product. as for the dents. try straightening them out and then apply a skim coat.
Exactly what grumpy said man!
I would recommend taking a DA or a sanding block and hitting the area around the hole with some 36 grit after cutting out the rust and before welding.
Spot weld the new piece in and apply several very light coats of a body filler to it after grinding flat. Be wary when welding the new piece in that it doesn't raise up. If it does, just tap it back with a hammer.
For body filler, almost everyone uses Evercoat products. I recommend Rage Gold for most anything.
Apply the first rough coat, hit it with some 36 grit, another coat about 30 minutes later then sand with 80, then at least one more additional coat sanded with 180. Then it's time for primer.
Need any more advice, just let me know!
I would recommend taking a DA or a sanding block and hitting the area around the hole with some 36 grit after cutting out the rust and before welding.
Spot weld the new piece in and apply several very light coats of a body filler to it after grinding flat. Be wary when welding the new piece in that it doesn't raise up. If it does, just tap it back with a hammer.
For body filler, almost everyone uses Evercoat products. I recommend Rage Gold for most anything.
Apply the first rough coat, hit it with some 36 grit, another coat about 30 minutes later then sand with 80, then at least one more additional coat sanded with 180. Then it's time for primer.
Need any more advice, just let me know!
All good advise, but with no access to a welder, the panel adhesives work really well. Still need to cut out the rust. Cut your patch 1/2" larger than hole and flange edges so patch fits flush. Eastwood sells a complete kit for doing this that I have used with excellent results. Marson also makes a gold filler that works good and a little cheaper. The Marglass is great when you have to apply a little thicker than normal then skimcoat with reg filler for nicer finish.
Thanks guys. This one's still open for comment and discussion. I've got a lot of little trim holes at the bottom edges. I think I'm going to use lead for those, as well as the cab seams, and drip rail seams.
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