replacement cab corners, rocker panels
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Morgantown, WV
replacement cab corners, rocker panels
Im sure this has been covered a 1000 times but I couldn't find anything surprisingly and I just need a quick answer.
I found them on LMC truck, but I wanted to see if there was anywhere that was cheaper.
LMC Truck Parts - Page 23
I need parts 16 and 17, but whats the difference between 16 and 14? (16 is whats severly rusted on my truck, along with the cab corners)
How hard are these to replace? I dont have a welder or hardly know how to weld at that, also dont want to pay someone to weld it on. so Im not sure if this can be done with rivets or not? Ideas anyone
I found them on LMC truck, but I wanted to see if there was anywhere that was cheaper.
LMC Truck Parts - Page 23
I need parts 16 and 17, but whats the difference between 16 and 14? (16 is whats severly rusted on my truck, along with the cab corners)
How hard are these to replace? I dont have a welder or hardly know how to weld at that, also dont want to pay someone to weld it on. so Im not sure if this can be done with rivets or not? Ideas anyone
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These are definitely a weld in job, and a precision one at that. If you're not an experienced body worker or a good welder, this is not a project for you.
And if you do consider going to a shop, I'd be ready to pay more than $700-800 for a quality install and paint repair.
As far as 16 v. 14, 16 claims to be "slip on." I'm not sure what that means, but I'm sure you don't want that on your truck. Its probably a cheaper aftermarket oversized stamp-out that can be welded (hopefully) over the existing panel. 14 is a weld-in replacement. I'd characterize them as 14 being fast-healing stitches and 16 is a band-aid covering an infection. A little more expensive to put in, but worth the money.
And if you do consider going to a shop, I'd be ready to pay more than $700-800 for a quality install and paint repair.
As far as 16 v. 14, 16 claims to be "slip on." I'm not sure what that means, but I'm sure you don't want that on your truck. Its probably a cheaper aftermarket oversized stamp-out that can be welded (hopefully) over the existing panel. 14 is a weld-in replacement. I'd characterize them as 14 being fast-healing stitches and 16 is a band-aid covering an infection. A little more expensive to put in, but worth the money.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Morgantown, WV
well, I cant afford to take it to someone, esp for that much. this site seems to be cheaper,
Repair Panels-Ford - 1987-1996 F150/250 LD/1987-98 F250/F350 HD
Repair Panels-Ford - 1987-1996 F150/250 LD/1987-98 F250/F350 HD
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Joined: Nov 2010
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Those are still weld-in panels and will require extensive body work. To be blunt, fixing the rust is going to be pricey, and the good options aren't that much worse than the cheap covers. Even if you can do it yourself, you'll need:
welder
grinder
body putty
lots of grits of sandpaper
orbital sander
sanding blocks
spray gun and booth
primer
paint
clearcoat
And the knowledge to use all these effectively
That's why taking it to a shop is worth the money. There's no cheap, good way to fix external body rust unless you can do everything yourself and have the equipment. I wish there was more to it, but there's just not.
welder
grinder
body putty
lots of grits of sandpaper
orbital sander
sanding blocks
spray gun and booth
primer
paint
clearcoat
And the knowledge to use all these effectively
That's why taking it to a shop is worth the money. There's no cheap, good way to fix external body rust unless you can do everything yourself and have the equipment. I wish there was more to it, but there's just not.
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