Truck stalled and wont start now.
#16
If the CPS is known to have issues, you need to change it to rule that out first. Do you have a chip in the truck that could have come loose? Is your truck currently on level ground or still at a steep angle? If your "non-serviceable" plug is leaking, has it come loose or perhaps come out? You mentioned rain, was it raining when it stalled?
Check the wiring at the IPR to make sure the insulation isn't chaffed and rubbing together or against something else. Do the same for the ICP wiring and even try starting the truck with the ICP unplugged.
Check the wiring at the IPR to make sure the insulation isn't chaffed and rubbing together or against something else. Do the same for the ICP wiring and even try starting the truck with the ICP unplugged.
#17
I understand the CPS issue but if it was dead, my tach among other things wouldn't work but they do.
Not sure where you got rain from lol but it was a clear dry day. I let the truck roll to the middle of the driveway after the stall which is nice and flat. Truck is stock considering engine mods. Tranny is built.
Already tried starting the truck with the ICP unplugged and it still didn't start. Plug on ICP and especially on the IPR is all oily from my leak. Wires have no chaffing, rubbing or cuts on them.
Not sure where you got rain from lol but it was a clear dry day. I let the truck roll to the middle of the driveway after the stall which is nice and flat. Truck is stock considering engine mods. Tranny is built.
Already tried starting the truck with the ICP unplugged and it still didn't start. Plug on ICP and especially on the IPR is all oily from my leak. Wires have no chaffing, rubbing or cuts on them.
#18
So is the plug on the HPOP loose? Anything else down there loose or missing like the tin nut on the back of the IPR? Does the fuel pump come on for 20 seconds when the key is turned to the on position? Have you checked all your fuses with a multi-meter or test light?
#19
I guess I'll get a new cps in it and get back on that. In the mean time I'm going to try cleaning the IPR and see if its stuck or dirty. Fuses under the hood checked out but now that you mention it I never checked under the dash fuses though. Will check those also. I'll go back over the wires and connections again.
Also pump does run for the 20secs on the "ON" position. I even cleaned out the lines and visually tested the pump and it sucked good and pumped into the fuel bowl very well.
Also pump does run for the 20secs on the "ON" position. I even cleaned out the lines and visually tested the pump and it sucked good and pumped into the fuel bowl very well.
#20
#21
That was a check to see if certain circuits that power the PCM are getting voltage. The pump running is a good sign. Let us know if you find anything else on the wires or how the new CPS does. In the mean time, keep the batteries on a charger. If voltage drops too low while cranking the IDM won't fire the injectors, no matter how well it sounds like the engine might be spinning over.
#22
Tach moves on mine. I'll be checking the fuses. Fuel bowl was checked and it pumps good into it. In tank screens are free, I blew back the fuel line, it is free and clear, pump pumped from fuel can good also.
#23
Well was checking out the IPR and noticed the tin nut was missing along with the spacer, couldn't find them until I noticed a funny looking mound of oily sand in the valley, took a pair of extra long needle nose pliers and sure enough there they were. Cleaned it all up reinstalled them and the truck started right up. Truck runs much smoother and crisper. I think the tin nut has been loose/solenoid on the IPR loose for sometime now. Truck acts like when I bought it now.
Thanks to the posters for the tips and hints.
Thanks to the posters for the tips and hints.
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rathersmart
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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07-08-2013 12:32 AM