I can't see your solenoid and its wiring in that picture???

Anyways I just did this on accident as I have been replacing my whole wiring harness!

On the glowplug solenoid there is the post that has a big positive wire going to the battery? You will probably see a couple more wires. One yellow and another with a dark color fusible link?

The dark one should be coming from the harness from the firewall side and it sounds like its hooked up to the positive side of that solenoid so its always on.

The other big leads on the solenoid are to feed power to your glowplugs when the trigger is hit. So you want that light to go on when the glowplugs are getting power, thus move that wire to that post.

 

It wasn't always on before I put in manual button. And picture is of silonoid with original "do not jump start here" cap on it

 

Does your wait to star light turn off if you push the button?
These relays (including starter) have been known for arc welding the internal contacts and staying on (had a starter die on me from that).
If you push your wts button and the light turns off, you either have it wired wrong or the wrong switch.

 

No, after the manual switch it now is always alumanated. Also I think there is a starter silinoid wired in with the glow plug business because there are extra components wired in.. I'm wondering if the controller was fine before manual button just something wired wrong. I would rather it just work right so if anyone can help me at all, thanks

 

Also I've redone all the injectors and then return lines and still leaked so got a better kit and no almost no fuel is leaking out but air is still leaking in and I have to repurge the system everytime unless it was just running like how it was when I bought the truck. I don't want this to happen anymore.. I heard something about electric fuel pumps but also one injector is leaking from the tomography the plastic fitting, no mater witch kit and changed the orings. Righnoe there is a plastic washer with an orings under it but above the plastic cap to keep it from leaking somewhat. Any ideas?

 

We need better quality upclose pictures of each solenoid and the wiring coming off them to identify. There isn't allot of wiring in those areas stock so I need to see it to compare.

Are you hearing the snap off the solenoid when you click the ignition and the light goes on? Hope your glowplugs haven't been burning all that time you are seeing the light!


On the electric pump I am using a carrier unit and its been awesome so far. Note I don't have air intrusion so bad that my feed line is showing bubbles and I don't leave fuel on the ground. I do lose prime overnight though. So now I wait 10 seconds before hitting the glowplugs then starting up.

On the return lines, all I can suggest is that each surface is totally clean. Make sure the threads aren't crossthreaded on your hardlines. Get a quality kit and lube everything with vaseline, then set the kit and tighten everything down and don't touch it again. This has worked for me thus far. Be carefull not to snag the orings on the injectors and make sure they are seated straight.

 

It only clicks on when I depress the button. But light is always on now, it wasn't before. And what fuel pump and such are you using? Because I think ot going to move to one soon and have no idea where to go with it.

 

What pump should i buy and where should i install it? i need to know soon its becoming a big problem. also i want to turn the truck up and have a pyro installed, with an electric pump what should i do? i have no clue on this topic.. i would rather just have a pump to reprime the system before i start the truck and then just run with the michanical, but its all up to the advice i get and i need to get this fixed

 

I got mine for $80 shipped from this guy, carrier makes it.

Oilburners.net

Also had to buy a chevy big block off plate at napa which was around $10, to delete the stock pump. This is the one I got.
NAPA AUTO PARTS

And a tube of permatex sealant # 59214 to seal the fittings

And you will need to take the pump to the hardware store to get a couple fittings to take from the pump to what you want. For me I installed some clear fuel runs and put another fitting on the piece coming out of the filter head into a barb. Then 2 90 degree fittings that turned into barbs so I could accept the fuel line rail from back of the truck, and then what I wanted to do size wise from pump to filter head.

Wiring is pretty easy but I would pick up a relay and use the power source from the ip pump as the trigger and run pump power straight to battery with fuse.

Also on my truck I had a fuel heater inline and was able to get rid of that whole piece since it didn't work anyway.

 

im sorry youre probally going to have to spell it out for me... where/ how do i install a all new epump? like what do i remove and what parts do i still use? can i still turn the fuel up and make it smoke more?

 

Basically what I said, but you are going to be pulling out your stock lift pump and that is what the block off plate is for. Once in there you will see where the fuel rail is coming from the back of the truck tanks and you will replumb after you install the pump.

As far as where to put the pump, that you will have to find out yourself but for me I used the fuel filter mounts 2 holes and used an old piece of angle metal I had laying around and shot a bar off to the left. I then used a couple of small pieces to bring the fuel pump down so there was room under the hood and I could reach things, etc. So a drill and rotozip worked for that stuff, then some appropriate bolts.

Turning the fuel up on your ip is a whole different project you should worry about later, but thats just a setting and yes you will be able to change it.

So all the little parts will add up. You got $80 for the pump, maybe $10 in mounting materials, $5 for sealant, $10 for fittings, $10 for fuel hose, $10 in electrical.

 

And here are a couple pictures of my gp solenoid. Note I have deleted the voltage regulator because I converted over to a 3g alternator. Cleaned up some wires but it sure is still a mess

This is what I had on the computer for whatever reason, I tried to draw on it to show where the wires were going. You want that blackish wire coming from the harness on the firewall side to the fusible link to the glowplug solenoid on the same side as the 2 big wire bundle on the controller so it lights up when power is going to them. Those 2 bundles are what I have on my side. Then you have your controller wire on the one side(mine is green), and the black ground terminal on the other small post.

On the battery side of the gp solenoid I got the big red wire which goes to the battery + and also branches and goes to the fender starter solenoid post. On that post there is another wire that is a busible link that turns into a main yellow power wire. On the other big side of the starter solenoid is the wire that goes down to the starter. The small red/blue wire should be the stock ignition excitor wire.

There is also one more terminal on the battery side of the glowplug solenoid going to a fusible link to another yellow main power line to the truck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psolenoid2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...gpsolenoid.jpg