King Bolt Replacement
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King Bolt Replacement
My sons truck has a terrible noise coming from the passenger front wheel. It is coming from what Oreily auto parts calls the king bolt. I have everything off, (wheel, brake caliper, ect) just cant figure out how to remove the thing. Any suggestions. !979 F150 2 Wheel drive.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
I think you're referring to the king pin. It's not a bolt - it has no head and no threads. Instead, it is held in place by friction in the bushings.
Enough with the technicalities. What sound is it making? Is it a groan or a roar?
If it's a groan, then it could be the kingpin (and bushings) are dry and need to be greased. If it is a constant roar, then the wheel bearings may need to be replaced. Replacing bearings is easy. Disassemble and push out the races with a brass drift. Cut the old races with a cut off wheel and use them to drive in the new races. Pack the new bearings and reassemble. Replacing the kinpins and bushings with metal bushings will require, for most folks, the services of a machine shop.
Enough with the technicalities. What sound is it making? Is it a groan or a roar?
If it's a groan, then it could be the kingpin (and bushings) are dry and need to be greased. If it is a constant roar, then the wheel bearings may need to be replaced. Replacing bearings is easy. Disassemble and push out the races with a brass drift. Cut the old races with a cut off wheel and use them to drive in the new races. Pack the new bearings and reassemble. Replacing the kinpins and bushings with metal bushings will require, for most folks, the services of a machine shop.
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King Bolt (pin)
Its not the wheel bearing. It doesn't make a noise when it moves down the road, just when you turn the wheel. Even when its in park. Oreilys called it a king bolt. Makes no sense to me either. Anyway, I tried greasing it first (top and bottom)didn't do a thing to help. Need to replace it. So machine shop is the only way to remove them? No chance one can do it themselves? Thanks for the replys.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
Nav over to this site and read up the section on kingpins and bushings: Installing Disc Brakes on Your 2WD Pickup - Pt. 1 - FORDification.com
I've got a disassembled 78 front suspension & brakes to swap in my 70 and did a detailed inspection. The kingpins have corrosion on the section where it goes through the I-beams but the bushings, bearings, and shims were fine. However, I'm gonna go ahead and replace them for another 100K of service.
My conclusion that's it's a hair beyond my resources/skills and will be heading to a machine shop when the dropped I-beams arrive.
I've got a disassembled 78 front suspension & brakes to swap in my 70 and did a detailed inspection. The kingpins have corrosion on the section where it goes through the I-beams but the bushings, bearings, and shims were fine. However, I'm gonna go ahead and replace them for another 100K of service.
My conclusion that's it's a hair beyond my resources/skills and will be heading to a machine shop when the dropped I-beams arrive.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
If you are lucky, and I mean really, really lucky, and are using the nylon bushings you won't need a machine shop....but, then there's the real world.
The kingpin itself is held in the I beam by a tapered bolt (basic p/n 3122). In the middle of the spindle, where the kingpin goes through there is a nut, remove this nut and then drive the tapered pin out of the axle. Don't worry about damaging the pin, new ones come with the kingpin set.
Here's where you need to be really, really lucky. IF you are lucky, you'll be able to drive the kingpin out of the axle but don't count on it. Usually the pin is siezed in the axle and either you'll have to heat the axle with a torch to get it to release or press them out with a hydraulic press. This involves removing the axle from the truck so you can put them in the press.
If you're using nylon bushings you can reassemble the axle without any machining. If you're using metal bushings (my personal preference, as long as you keep them geased they last just about forever), you can drive out the old ones and install the new ones yourself but a machine shop will have to hone the bushings to fit the kingpin.
Here is the illustration from the Ford parts catalog of the twin I beams, click on the .pdf link to view.
The kingpin itself is held in the I beam by a tapered bolt (basic p/n 3122). In the middle of the spindle, where the kingpin goes through there is a nut, remove this nut and then drive the tapered pin out of the axle. Don't worry about damaging the pin, new ones come with the kingpin set.
Here's where you need to be really, really lucky. IF you are lucky, you'll be able to drive the kingpin out of the axle but don't count on it. Usually the pin is siezed in the axle and either you'll have to heat the axle with a torch to get it to release or press them out with a hydraulic press. This involves removing the axle from the truck so you can put them in the press.
If you're using nylon bushings you can reassemble the axle without any machining. If you're using metal bushings (my personal preference, as long as you keep them geased they last just about forever), you can drive out the old ones and install the new ones yourself but a machine shop will have to hone the bushings to fit the kingpin.
Here is the illustration from the Ford parts catalog of the twin I beams, click on the .pdf link to view.
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