I just read a thread on the best oil filters. and it seemed that everyone was slammin fram oil filters. whats the deal maybe they don't make them very good in the usa but here in canada there not a bad filter I have been using them for years and have never had any problems yet so whats the deal?

 

The FL1-A or the wix 51515 are a much better filter and really don't cost much more. Frams are weaker on both the outside and inside.

 

Her's review on filters.
Read about the quality of Fram.

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...lterstudy.html

 

And all those old filter studies are worthless, unless you are thinking about buying an a old Fram at a garage sale. Major changes were made after Honeywell took them over. Fram is still overpriced though.

 

I too used Fram filters for years with no problem, but after seeing the site that redvet mentioned I questioned that choice.
So I cut open my last PH8A and saw the same things the study showed. Cardboard end caps that are just a bit thicker than a cereal box, a by-pass valve thats built into the metal tension spring that holds the element in place(so can oil leak past where the two meet?) and a antidrain valve which is just pushed into the other end of the filter element.
I was buying them at a BJ's club here in NJ for 7.99 for 3. That was a good price, but I'll pay more for peace of mind.
Oh, someone in this forum mentioned that Purolator is(now?)using cardboard, this is the second time I've read this. Where is this info coming from?

 

That study is dated, but regular Fram oil filters today are still made the same as they were back then. They still have cardboard end caps, weak rubber antidrain back valves and paper thin metal casings. The newer Tough Guard and Extended Drain filters are better quality than the ExtraGuard line, but their pricepoint still makes them uncompetitive IMHO. In defense of Fram, I think the amount of glue used on the cardboard endcaps to hold the filter material in place probably provides the dimensional stability and may be a prime reason why there isn't much evidence of endcap failures. Lots of speculation, but few actual examples. On the other hand I've personally had a couple of Fram filters crush as I tried to remove them so badly that I had to take the car into a oil change shop to finish the job. I attribute that to poor skill on my part and even poorer design on Fram's part. I also think their filter media is okay, but the cheap Fram anti drainback valves are actually a bigger threat to engine wear than anything else. People who use a filter where that feature is required need to be very attentive to cold engine start up noise, ESPECIALLY with a Ford. Here is what my Escape's owners manual has to say about the topic:

"If a replacement oil filter is used that does not meet Ford material and design specifications, start-up engine noises or knock may be experienced. It is recommended you use the appropriate Motorcraft oil filter (or another brand meeting Ford specifications) for your engine application."

Bottom line with Frams: there are simply better choices out there.

Purolator has acknowledged putting paper endcaps in a very limited number of their filters, apparently for years. The one model I've seen is the L10111, a GM application. I'm not aware of any others.

 

Allied Signal bought Fram from Bendix.
In 1999 Allied Signal merged with Honeywell International, Inc.
The old regular Fram filters were much better than today's filter.

 

They now have a waffeled center tube vs the older flat tube that had too few holes. This was my main objection as I always saw filter media being pushed through the holes. This even occured on a filter that had less than 1K on it. Have found numerous times where oil pressure punctured the media at these holes. It is interesting that the reduced number of holes in the center tube was by design to control flow rates thus preventing crushing of the filter media. This meia always showed evidence of some crushing. I believe it is correct that the media actually filtered better than media in some other filters. This is of course when it was filtering. This filter was very prone to going into the bypass mode. I suspect that the new PH8A is very much the same as any other filter now. Anyone want to buy me one to take apart? Incidently, took apart an XG-5 and I thought it was one of the best filter designs I had ever seen. Unfortunantly, I think this is one with teflon in it and like every other Fram - overpriced.

 

I agree with the frams weak construction. My mobil 1 filter that I use now was a lot heavier new than the same fram. That website convinced me about switching over. Now my engine rarely knocks on startup.

 

I happened to still have the cut open PH8A which I cut open only a few months ago. But I must admit it was still one from Allied.
I'll have to recheck it's inner tube.
If they are making changes they better do some advertising saying so. I can't say I'd go back even then.
Again with the O/F study, the Fram toughguard also had cardboard end caps, but the material of some of the other parts were improved.
From what I understand the Fram X2 is the only one made with metal end caps and is suppose to last 7,500 miles(I won't even get close to that between changes), so how long are their other filters suppose to last? At $10 a pop, I'll pass.