GT40'd 5.8....
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 923
Likes: 1
From: North Central MA
That Bassani Y-pipe is going to cost you a fortune if you didn't get one back when the dot coms had them at blow out pricing. Just not worth it in my book. More so on the 5.8. Most are not 2 into one, till the cat. On a 5.0 I get it... It would be more cost effective to make it true duel.
OK read it and stand strong on this. I also read a post here they are not made anymore - false. They are still made and available. Just will cost you near 400 to your door as the dot coms stopped buying them in the thousands to drop costs.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
all you really need is to get a full set of factory ford manuals that shops use to fix these trucks... They give wiring diagrams, set by step instructions etc... I didn't know that I wanted to do a rebuild all by myself but I managed to assemble the short block after machining all by myself and a friend or two to help now and then... And I just started on "heavy duty" stuff like rebuilding an engine just a few years back... It's just nuts and bolts and keeping everything organized... and remembering where everything goes back together.
When I get my 351w back into a vehicle I'll have a custom y-pipe made at the local shop... or maybe I'll get creative and weld one up myself... who knows...?>?>?>?
When I get my 351w back into a vehicle I'll have a custom y-pipe made at the local shop... or maybe I'll get creative and weld one up myself... who knows...?>?>?>?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: NC
^ Haha, creativity is useful! I've never rebuilt anying bigger than an a 5HPOHV B&S, I replaced the head gasket on an 18HP OHC B&S so tearing a small block is a big jump. We shall see, though...live and learn.
Could a shop rebuild, and install 1.7 RR on the heads to the point were I could just remove and replace the E7's without me having to make any adjustments?
Could a shop rebuild, and install 1.7 RR on the heads to the point were I could just remove and replace the E7's without me having to make any adjustments?
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
I have never actually rebuilt a motor either, but a good friend of mine has. I will be seeking some of his assistance with mine. I was around quite a bit when he rebuilt a fox body 5.0 for a hot rod MG project recently. It is a bit tedious, but definitely not excessively complicated.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
Does anyone have experience with reinstalling the passenger side upper intake manifold support brace with headers?
Also, do the GT40 heads require different spark plugs than the E7 heads do. Which Motorcraft plugs should be purchased?
Also, do the GT40 heads require different spark plugs than the E7 heads do. Which Motorcraft plugs should be purchased?
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
Another question on the heads. There looks to be 3-4 different GT40 heads, not counting the P heads. Some have provisions for the AIR tube and some do not. Also some have the different head bolt hole sizes between 5.0 and 5.8. Whats the part number for 351 GT40s with the AIR tube holes on the back?
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
When I installed JBA headers on my 302, I made a stand-off long enough to align the brace to where the factory had it on the exhaust manifold. I used a longer grade 8 bolt, or threaded rod (will verify since I can't remember right now) and a length of square steel tubing (for the stand-off). The tubing is against the header flange.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
this may or may not help for gt40 and LT questions...
GT40P engine in Bronco - GT40P heads AND GT40P HEADERS that WORK - FSB Forums
GT40P engine in Bronco - GT40P heads AND GT40P HEADERS that WORK - FSB Forums
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
When I installed JBA headers on my 302, I made a stand-off long enough to align the brace to where the factory had it on the exhaust manifold. I used a longer grade 8 bolt, or threaded rod (will verify since I can't remember right now) and a length of square steel tubing (for the stand-off). The tubing is against the header flange.
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