GT40'd 5.8....
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
All the aftermarket intakes flow better than the stock piece and most of them are single TB car style so you need that piece and an EGR spacer if you want to keep that functional. And then you need larger injectors and MAF meter and a tune to make it all cooperate, so this one change can be quite expensive all on it's own.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 3
From: Conway, South Carolina
The two Biggest things is the intake and heads.
1. Edelbrock 5.8 truck intake
2. Ford Racing GT-40 turbo swirl Aluminum heads
This is what I'd do. You are probably looking at 350 hp just from these two things.
I got a buddie, he put a 4bbl aftermarket intake on, and gt-40 iron heads and had it put on the dino, it made 320 hp, 295 torque.
1. Edelbrock 5.8 truck intake
2. Ford Racing GT-40 turbo swirl Aluminum heads
This is what I'd do. You are probably looking at 350 hp just from these two things.
I got a buddie, he put a 4bbl aftermarket intake on, and gt-40 iron heads and had it put on the dino, it made 320 hp, 295 torque.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 292
From: Laramie, WY
295 ft. lbs? With a 5.8? Isn't that a step backwards from stock torque numbers?
I may have read torque numbers at the crank, and your buddies 295 is at the wheels?
I thought they made 330 ft. lbs. stock, but just 230hsp.
I may have read torque numbers at the crank, and your buddies 295 is at the wheels?
I thought they made 330 ft. lbs. stock, but just 230hsp.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 3
From: Conway, South Carolina
351W:
1. 210hp and 315 torque (with like E7 heads)
2. 240 hp and 325 torque (with gt-40 heads, lighting intake)
Moderator
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,548
Likes: 71
From: Calhoun GA
WOW, I've seen quite a few dyno runs with aftermarket intakes and GT-40's, but never that much, even on Dynojet. I can't help but think that there might be a little more to that combo than simply GT-40's and an aftermarket intake on an otherwise stock motor. If not, then he's got it dialed in nicely!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: NC
All interesting points gentlemen.
Again, I looking to keep things as simple as possible and not have this turn into a big dollar project. I'm not really interested in "big" numbers just a well matched combo that will keep things as close to stock as possible(stock= less $ spent, afterall I need to save some for a 302 build for the GT haha) 275 BHP and 375 TQ are rough parameters...
Again, I looking to keep things as simple as possible and not have this turn into a big dollar project. I'm not really interested in "big" numbers just a well matched combo that will keep things as close to stock as possible(stock= less $ spent, afterall I need to save some for a 302 build for the GT haha) 275 BHP and 375 TQ are rough parameters...
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: NC
Without the intake the engine won't be as strong as it could be but so what, it'll still be quite a bit stroinger than stock and this gives you something else to upgrade in the future.
All the aftermarket intakes flow better than the stock piece and most of them are single TB car style so you need that piece and an EGR spacer if you want to keep that functional. And then you need larger injectors and MAF meter and a tune to make it all cooperate, so this one change can be quite expensive all on it's own.
All the aftermarket intakes flow better than the stock piece and most of them are single TB car style so you need that piece and an EGR spacer if you want to keep that functional. And then you need larger injectors and MAF meter and a tune to make it all cooperate, so this one change can be quite expensive all on it's own.
Would "port matching" the intake be needed? Mild port work on some GT40's may be doable, I just need to contact some machine shops and get some quotes.
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Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
I'm interested in doing a similar build on a 5.8 to replace my 5.0. I will be going for an emissions friendly setup also. I figured we would all be discussing the same thing, so now need to start a new thread.
I would like to either use the Bassani Y or the Bassani dual setup for a Lightning. I just really want true duals.
I have not decided on what shortys to get yet. I know that the BBK don't fit well and the Hedmans are known for defects in the welds.
I too prefer to go with cast iron GT40 heads. I know to stay away from P heads. Is this the only cast iron head option there is?
I would like to either use the Bassani Y or the Bassani dual setup for a Lightning. I just really want true duals.
I have not decided on what shortys to get yet. I know that the BBK don't fit well and the Hedmans are known for defects in the welds.
I too prefer to go with cast iron GT40 heads. I know to stay away from P heads. Is this the only cast iron head option there is?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
From Ford yes, but from the aftermarket you have cast iron heads from World Products, Dart, and RHS that can be purchased brand new, fully assembled, and ready to bolt on for about $1200 a pair.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: NC
I'm interested in doing a similar build on a 5.8 to replace my 5.0. I will be going for an emissions friendly setup also. I figured we would all be discussing the same thing, so now need to start a new thread.
I would like to either use the Bassani Y or the Bassani dual setup for a Lightning. I just really want true duals.
I have not decided on what shortys to get yet. I know that the BBK don't fit well and the Hedmans are known for defects in the welds.
I too prefer to go with cast iron GT40 heads. I know to stay away from P heads. Is this the only cast iron head option there is?
I would like to either use the Bassani Y or the Bassani dual setup for a Lightning. I just really want true duals.
I have not decided on what shortys to get yet. I know that the BBK don't fit well and the Hedmans are known for defects in the welds.
I too prefer to go with cast iron GT40 heads. I know to stay away from P heads. Is this the only cast iron head option there is?
Conaski, the guy is asking $275... Not bad, but I'll see if he will take $200 which should allow me to have a machine shop rebuild them and still have them cost considerably less than a new set...
As far as a cam goes... what are some good options? Power bad = idle to 4500-5000 PRM's. Is this the one mentioned earlier?
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ode=F50CEFIMAG
This one is even smalller: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1446&sb=2
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 3
From: Conway, South Carolina
WOW, I've seen quite a few dyno runs with aftermarket intakes and GT-40's, but never that much, even on Dynojet. I can't help but think that there might be a little more to that combo than simply GT-40's and an aftermarket intake on an otherwise stock motor. If not, then he's got it dialed in nicely!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
The question is what are you capable of doing yourself????
Personally for the numbers you are looking at wanting....
I'd go with long tubes and put them on with studs so changing heads later will be easier... Also go with the cam that Conanski (paul) suggested and you'll be at your power goals for less than $500 if you can turn the wrenches yourself!
Head's and intake can be done later when you have $1000-$1500 to drop for more power...
Personally for the numbers you are looking at wanting....
I'd go with long tubes and put them on with studs so changing heads later will be easier... Also go with the cam that Conanski (paul) suggested and you'll be at your power goals for less than $500 if you can turn the wrenches yourself!
Head's and intake can be done later when you have $1000-$1500 to drop for more power...
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: NC
^ I'll have a quote by tomorrow (rebuild heads, install cam and heads + exhaust work)
I may even forego short tubes and reuse the stock manifolds. Again, with the factory tune, the motor will not spin faster than 4500 RPM's so short tubes may not be worth it. Any thoughts on that?
Anyone have a link to the stock, roller truck cam specs?
I may even forego short tubes and reuse the stock manifolds. Again, with the factory tune, the motor will not spin faster than 4500 RPM's so short tubes may not be worth it. Any thoughts on that?
Anyone have a link to the stock, roller truck cam specs?