p2285, random surging...
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From: Raleigh, NC
p2285, random surging...
From what I read the icp sensor is bad, how would I know if the harness is bad? The "check engine" light is not on all the time, but the code p2285 has been pending for a while.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
The turbo does not need to be removed to access and replace this sensor.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Raleigh, NC
I have everything torn down to the sensor, should I cut a 1 1/16 socket down to fit the sensor, or cut a wrench in half?
Also the plug is oil soaked but the contacts look good, should I just clean and reuse?
Also the plug is oil soaked but the contacts look good, should I just clean and reuse?
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Fayetteville, NC
I just cut a wrench in half for mine. Just put my second replacement sensor on my truck. First set a code and leaked, I replaced the sensor and cleaned the connector with electrical contact cleaner. It worked for 80000 miles then while towing on a trip in august that sensor started spraying oil. I had to put 6 quarts in over 600 miles to get home. I just cleaned the connector again. If you can get the wiring pigtail I'd replace it though for piece of mind. I didn't have time to wait on the connector to be ordered since my truck is my daily driver.
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From: Raleigh, NC
Thanks, the job is complete, I ended up making a socket. I bought an $8 1 1/16 deep socket from the store and took it to the bench grinder, I shortened it about 1/4 in and ground down the top of it to clear the heat shield, worked great for me. The connector was oil soaked so I cleaned it with carb cleaner and compressed air. So far so good.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Tampa, FL
Thanks, the job is complete, I ended up making a socket. I bought an $8 1 1/16 deep socket from the store and took it to the bench grinder, I shortened it about 1/4 in and ground down the top of it to clear the heat shield, worked great for me. The connector was oil soaked so I cleaned it with carb cleaner and compressed air. So far so good.
Thanks...
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Were you able to replace the sensor without removing all the things I keep reading about? I have my sensor in hand and need to knock this out in the morning- mine's been hinting at trouble for awhile and recently has gotten bad. I'm getting a good amount of surging now.
Thanks...
Thanks...
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From: Raleigh, NC
That is actually the same write-up I used. The job was not nearly as bad as some people made it out to be. Removing the degas, and computer is very easy, just a few screws on each, nothing technical. I believe that buying the cheap 1 1/16 deep socket and grinding it down to fit past the heat shield works great, some others prefer cutting an 1 1/16 wrench in half and using that. Using the short piece of 3/8 fuel line worked great and getting the new sensor started back in the hole. Either way I would say just dive in to it and get it done.
The truck has to be completely cooled down, or you will come out with some serious burns!
The truck has to be completely cooled down, or you will come out with some serious burns!
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