Which is better, timken or sealed bearings for the rear axle?
#1
Which is better, timken or sealed bearings for the rear axle?
I need a replacement bearing. My 1960 F100 truck has sealed bearings on the rear axle shafts but the parts houses tell me the timken tapered are what they show. It seems to me that the bearing should be open to the rear axle lubricant.
Whats your opinion?
Whats your opinion?
#2
Howdy,
You have an F-100.
I don't think 1/2 ton trucks usually have rear-axle oil lubricating the axle bearings do they?
It's common and required on full floating axles though. and if you have a full floating axle you'll have inner and outer tapered bearings..... F-100s don't usually have full floating axles.
Front wheel drive cars and (4-wheel drive) trucks have sealed bearings in the front. They go well over 100,000 miles with (usually) no problems.
(My 16 year old 3/4T Suburban has over 190,000 miles on the original sealed front wheel bearings)
I went to Rock auto and according to them, A Timken 514003 is a bearing that will work in a 1960 F-100 rear axle.
It of course depends on what axle you have.
Front bearings are almost ALWAYS tapered and there's always 2 per wheel.
(Unless it's front or 4 wheel drive)
And by the way, I would replace BOTH bearings if you think one needs replacing.
Regards,
Rick
You have an F-100.
I don't think 1/2 ton trucks usually have rear-axle oil lubricating the axle bearings do they?
It's common and required on full floating axles though. and if you have a full floating axle you'll have inner and outer tapered bearings..... F-100s don't usually have full floating axles.
Front wheel drive cars and (4-wheel drive) trucks have sealed bearings in the front. They go well over 100,000 miles with (usually) no problems.
(My 16 year old 3/4T Suburban has over 190,000 miles on the original sealed front wheel bearings)
I went to Rock auto and according to them, A Timken 514003 is a bearing that will work in a 1960 F-100 rear axle.
It of course depends on what axle you have.
Front bearings are almost ALWAYS tapered and there's always 2 per wheel.
(Unless it's front or 4 wheel drive)
And by the way, I would replace BOTH bearings if you think one needs replacing.
Regards,
Rick
#3
#6
Don't see any humor here. Seals are an option on just about any bearing. Assuming your truck has a 9", #514003 looks like the right bearing. It appears to have a seal on the side shown; maybe the other side is open. It is not a tapered bearing, it's a straight roller bearing. They are usually greased and sealed. It includes the retaining collar. Only about $6 most places, unless you get Genuine Timken.
On the other hand, I have a later 9" that uses tapered bearings, and they are lubricated by the diff oil, and are not sealed. There are many variations of 9" axles, so if you'd care to share some particulars about your truck's axle, tag #'s, etc., maybe you can get the answer you like.
On the other hand, I have a later 9" that uses tapered bearings, and they are lubricated by the diff oil, and are not sealed. There are many variations of 9" axles, so if you'd care to share some particulars about your truck's axle, tag #'s, etc., maybe you can get the answer you like.
#7
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#8
#9
Hey Doc, I have also noticed that most questions about frame swaps come from people who are not very knowledgeable about old cars. I have seen quite a few Model As and Model Ts where a modern chassis was used because it was easy but the result put the front wheels between the radiator and firewall.
That really looks bad. Using a proper aftermarket frame is not the same as using an S10 frame under a Model A. Does banned's comment on the frame swap really disqualify him from getting a legitimate answer to the axle bearing question? I agree with him that a Timken tapered bearing exposed to the rear axle lubricant seems better than a sealed bearing.
That really looks bad. Using a proper aftermarket frame is not the same as using an S10 frame under a Model A. Does banned's comment on the frame swap really disqualify him from getting a legitimate answer to the axle bearing question? I agree with him that a Timken tapered bearing exposed to the rear axle lubricant seems better than a sealed bearing.
#10
As far as his comments regarding the bearings, had nothing to do with his question. I quite frankly don't like seeing my friends try to help somebody and get insults like that when he doesn't like their answers. It was way out of line.
As far as the frame swap issue, he insulted that person as well. Had nothing to do with the frame swap issue itself.
This isn't the HAMB, we don't tolerate personal attacks like calling someone we don't know an "amateur" or saying things like "but thanks for the humor" or "I hope someone knowledgeable will respond".
By the way, we had somebody on this board once who loved to take jabs like that at undeserving people. Let's just say they're no longer here (or are they?)
As far as the frame swap issue, he insulted that person as well. Had nothing to do with the frame swap issue itself.
This isn't the HAMB, we don't tolerate personal attacks like calling someone we don't know an "amateur" or saying things like "but thanks for the humor" or "I hope someone knowledgeable will respond".
By the way, we had somebody on this board once who loved to take jabs like that at undeserving people. Let's just say they're no longer here (or are they?)
#11
#12
You don't get to choose; if the existing axle has tapered, that's what you use. They wouldn't be sealed most likely. If it has a sealed straight roller bearing, that's what you use. The housing and axle shafts you have dictate the choice.
A sealed bearing is likely to last longer than an open bearing at the same load, because metal bits from the diff gears that are in the oil don't get to it. No water/condensation in the grease inside a sealed bearing. When I cleaned out my F-1's axle tubes I got a pile of sludge and grit that had worked its way into the axle over 50 yrs of use, about a handful.
A sealed bearing is likely to last longer than an open bearing at the same load, because metal bits from the diff gears that are in the oil don't get to it. No water/condensation in the grease inside a sealed bearing. When I cleaned out my F-1's axle tubes I got a pile of sludge and grit that had worked its way into the axle over 50 yrs of use, about a handful.
#13
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#15
A Timken tapered bearing is NOT a sealed bearing but thanks for the humor
Your question was a valid one. It's ok that you're not knowledgeable about this stuff.
1/2T trucks and cars use "semi-floating" rear axle shafts. They don't use bearings that get oil from the rear axle (and they don't use tapered bearings like on the front).
The following is an excerpt from the 1954-1955 Ford Truck Shop Manual.
3. INTEGRAL HOUSING HYPOID REAR AXLE
.....................The wheel bearings are of the pre-lubricated, single-row, ball type, and are securely pressed onto the axle shaft and backed by a safety locking ring. These bearings are permanently lubricated and do not require periodic lubrication......................................
.....................The wheel bearings are of the pre-lubricated, single-row, ball type, and are securely pressed onto the axle shaft and backed by a safety locking ring. These bearings are permanently lubricated and do not require periodic lubrication......................................
I hope this clears it up.
Let me also add that Ford hasn't changed much how they do 1/2T light duty rear axles for many years well into the 80's and 90's