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Got a little problem I have changed 1 bad injector, new fuel filters top and bottom, fresh oil change, cleaned and resealed the EGR valve the truck is throwing no codes at this time but at idle it idle great up to about 1500 RPM and it goes to like missing. Going down the road does ok but when you hit a hill it goes to missing? I'm going to talk out loud here cause I'm puzzled Ran great going to work last nite and ran like crap coming home this morning Recon the fuel pump is going out letting it get enough fuel at idle just not enough under power? Is there a sock in the fuel tank on the pick up tube ?I have gotten some nasty rusty looking grit out of my HFCM when I change my filter makes me think I've gotten some trash in the pump and eat it up or just trash in the tank? What do you all think ? Is there an quick and easy way to put a fuel pressure gauge on to check my pressure?
6.0 engines do not like any dirt in the fuel system I would check your fuel filters again check your o rings on the filter caps make sure it is not sucking air.
Also check out the high pressure oil pump area on top of front of engine see if there is any fresh oil leaking down around the valley just below the high pressure pump.
Thee are a few problems that I have had with my 6.0 Egr has alot of problems getting clogged just after cleaning it out you might want to check it out again I cleaned my egr and it still picked up some more junk right after I cleaned it.
There is a test port for fuel pressure in the side of the top filter housing. Fitting size is M12x1.5. Most gauges are 1/8" NPT. Should be at least 45-48psi excellerating. If it's low there is an upgrade for the pressure regulator spring.
Fuel pressure regulator kit: 3C3Z-9T517-AG 1843065C98 or 1854267c94 (no cover)
Ford part # for the kit w/ no cover (should be much cheaper):
6E7Z-9C165-B
Gone I put the new o rings on when I changed the filters but I have seen them nick was well so I'll check them again tommorrow haven't seen any oil leaks to speak of. Rusty axelrod do you have a pic of this test port? I will get a gauge in the morning to check the pressure. The reason I'm thinking fuel pump it "the fuel pump" doesn't stay on solid when I turn the key to preheat it seems to sputter. Not a steady " hum" as I am use to with my other fords thanks for the help fellas. I'm a do it your self type of guy I'd rather spend my money than have a dealer spend it for me. Lol
Mine before i installed the fuel pressure gauge i had 50 lbs at idle and 44 at WOT and that is to low, installed the kit now 62 idle and 58 WOT, low fuel pressure will kill injectors and over 70 lbs may blow injector o-rings.
The Reg. Kit number is 3C3Z-9T517-AG and you get it form Ford
The spring is located behind the small plate that the return line attaches to. This is probably one of the easiest repairs you can make... Take the four screws loose (they are T-27 torx screws), change pull the old spring out of the brass cup, put the new spring in and re-install the plate. When you are taking it loose, keep your thumb on the plate so the spring/cup doesn't pop out and also use your thumb to hold the plate up tight to the fuel bowl when re-installing, so the screws can be threaded in good. If you buy the whole kit (which I think is the only way you can get it from Ford), I would replace the brass cup while you are at it..
You can see the plate and return line here. Page 30: Fuel Supply System
The only hard part is the hose is in the way, you need to get a turkey baster a new one and suck out all the fuel from the upper filter houseing that way you don't have a mess. After you are done you have to cycle the key 3 time 30 sec. each time to prime the fuel system. Here you go this is a good post by Band Member on the fuel pressure reg spring install. Fuel Regulator Upgrade w/ Pictures - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com pop
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Called about the spring kit today our local ford dealer doesn't have Any or anything else you ever need! but, one 40 miles away does so I'll be making the trip tommorrow or Friday 78.33 for the whole kit including the cap
Gone I put the new o rings on when I changed the filters but I have seen them nick was well
Not sure if you heard of this...but when you change the o-rings on the filters (any of them) smear some clean motor oil on them before you re-install the cap. Should keep them from binding and getting nicked. Also, what kind of retailer are you buying your fuel from? If you've got that much trash in your tank...makes me wonder what your preferred retailer's storage tanks look like.
Bismic is the kit without the cap Is it the exact same kit just short the cap? I was under the influence that that kit only had the spring it's self and not the brass pot and everything in it ? That's why I was willing to pay the extra money if it's just short the cap I'll go that way. Zhilton. I haven't had the truck very long the previous owner did no maintenance IMO Yes I did oil the o rings when I installed them I only buy fuel from BP stations and have never had a problem with there fuels. How important is the torque on the FF. Caps cause I just pulled them tight with a wrench I didnt torque them with a torque wrench?
I only buy fuel from BP stations and have never had a problem with there fuels. How important is the torque on the FF. Caps cause I just pulled them tight with a wrench I didnt torque them with a torque wrench?
It will be interesting to hear how much crap you've got in the tank..if that's what is going on. On the plastic caps...good & snug; stop turning 'em when they bottom out. I think the spec is measured in inch/pounds. I just spin mine down until the lip bottoms out on the housing...70k plus miles and never cracked a cap or leaked oil/fuel.
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