We did the balloon test and it pointed to the passenger side bank. We then pulled all the glowplugs and then tested each cylinder with the balloon test again and found that cylinders 1 and 3 blew the balloon up immediately and cylinder 5 and 7 made it pulsate but not very much. We pulled 1 and 3 and here are some pics. Also glowplug from cylinder 5 looked brand new, not even dark. As for the injectors they were black. The tip on #1 was a little shiny and the tip looked like it had a flat spot on the end. Also the washer was black and the o-rings were shot. On #3 I turned the bolt that holds it down about 4 turns by hand before ever putting the torx wrench in the bolt. Didnt even have to break it loose. The whole tip was black and it didnt even have a washer and again the o-rings were shot. Hopefully the injectors are good and were just not seated good. Anyway here are some pics of the glowplugs and injectors. We havent pulled the last 2 yet. Also in one of the pics at the back of the block just below the valve covers is some kind of plug. It may be the block heater, Im new to diesels so I dont know what everything is that Im looking at. Thanks for all the input and help.Pictures by markandkristi - Photobucket

 

whoever did the last injector work screwed up BAD

Those injectors werent sealed at the copper combustion washer

at this point you need to replace the injector holddowns on the blacked injectors

the injectors may still be good IDK they werent installed right thats for dhure
might as well pull all eight and rering them I would considering what you found so far


At least an injector tip didnt blow off

man when you get this truck going its gona have power you never new it had

 

Would the o-rings on the other 4 need replaced even though that side passed the balloon test? We arent the best mechanics but we do what we have to. We have put around 3500 miles on the truck since we bought it and had ran fine up to this point. Also would there be any way to tell if there was any piston damage done to overfueling? The truck has always had plenty of power and the only problems we had other than this was we had a few hard starts but it would always start on up after trying it a couple of times. Also on the pic of the egr cooler, well the pipe that goes to the turbo, I dont know much about the egr stuff but to me the pipe looks to be in fairly good shape but they all may look like that. Thanks again.

 

It could have burned a hole in the piston

Sounds like it took time for it to come loose IDK on the other side it passed a ballon test today so it passes but could develope issues down the road your peice of mind IDK

need a small scope to look inside at the piston

how long was it ran that way

might want to do a compression test b4 you put the GPs back in

 

It had started smoking some after the low fuel incident but after the smoke it wasnt really driven except out back in the pasture a couple of times. I was trying to get to the no start situation so I had just changed the oil to 10w30. The dealership had changed the oil and it had the 10w30 sticker on the window. I thought they put the wrong oil in it so after about 500 miles I switched to 15w40. Shortly after that was when we started having no starts but they were few and far between. I had done some reading about the hpop and thought that maybe the oil could have been a factor with the no start since we live in a hotter climate that I needed thinner oil. Then I saw 10w30 for diesels so thought I would switch back to what the dealer had in it. Took it for a test drive that was under 10 miles and in the last mile home is when the knock started. It was probably closer to a half mile from the house, pulled in the drive, let it idle a minute and revved it up a couple times and killed it since it didnt sound good. Thats when I went to get the video camera to video the noise and it had hydrolocked upon trying to start back up. I would say maybe a total of 10 miles from when the low fuel incident until now. When somethings not running right we tend to park it.

 

I would look in the cup for the copper injector washer. That's what started the whole problem. I'd be pulling the whole set to check for washers and seals AND to do a compression test. You're this far into the job and you need to do it 1.) for peace of mind and 2.) right the first time because having to go back and do it again will cost a LOT more time and money. You should replace at least that one injector and possibly all 4 on that side depending on the level of exhaust contamination into the fuel rail. That's a hard call. Be sure when you remove the hold down bolts that you clean the oil out of the hold down bolt holes or you'll have improper torque when you reinstall the injectors

Also, that IS the block heater but it has no cord. All motors came with them but Ford didn't install the cords on models that went to warmer climates as a cost saving measure. You can purchase a cord relatively cheap.

 

One more thing to point out. That pipe you took a picture of is not the egr cooler. That's the up pipe. The egr cooler is attached to that pipe. It in the middle of the pipe and runs under the intake towards the radiator. Either way you won't be able to tell anything about it by it's outside appearance. They fail internally.

 

Might want to see if it will pass a compression test B4 you buy to many parts

hope the pistons are good

should be ok if you didnt drive to far like this



Does anyone think you could see this type of Failure thru a Fuel Pressure Gauge or would the pump keep up??

 

Its going to be the weekend before we do anything else to it. What is a good compression test kit to get? My dad has one for a gas engine but we dont really have anything to fit the diesel. Also I made a glowplug puller. Im still refining the design but Ill post some pics when I see how it works on the drivers side. We managed to pull the passenger side by working a flat head screwdriver around. Thanks again for everything.