Here's the background, in case that matters...

Most importantly, I'm not really big on taking care of vehicles, but I will try. I bought this rig for the MPG (promised 20, getting 17).

Truck has been well serviced. Recently fixed leaking injectors, replaced engine temp sensors, brakes - the list goes on and on. I have switched to manual mode on the glow plugs, but I think I may have leaned on them too long. So, I had a pretty good idea when it wouldn't start, that maybe I had to replace them (again). So, to compensate, I've been plugging it in and that worked fine - it's summer after all, even if it is Seattle, having the block heater on should help.

I ran it all over the place on Friday, no problems at all. Came out early on Sat. morning, with the block heater on all night, wouldn't start until like 3rd try. Started for a couple of seconds, but as I reached for the shifter, she died, and was NOT to be resuscitated.

After cranking furiously for awhile and forgetting about the 2 minute rule, we resorted to starting fluid - only the smallest of puffs. No real response to that either, acted like it wanted to catch, but didn't. Ever since (I paid) to have the leaky fuel injectors replaced, I haven't been smelling the diesel so much. (Prior to that, there was no doubt what the fuel was). Now after trying to start it, I cannot smell the faintest wiff of diesel, so I'm suspecting fuel problems.

I spent most of Saturday, letting it sit, then trying again. I even bought new glow plugs (Motorcraft ZD-1A from good old O'Reillys) and installed them. With new glow plugs, no difference. Now I'm thinking it's fuel supply.

As with most people, the guages don't work so well. I normally go 250 miles on the front and then flip to the back. I was up to 240, but this still should leave almost 5 gallons in the tank (out of 19) so not out of fuel, but probably below 1/4 tank. I tried flipping back and forth whilst we were flailing away at getting it to try and run, even though I thought it needed to be running to do the switch.

I also thought that maybe it didn't have enough cranking power after so many tries, so we hooked one battery to a running car. This morning I tried with jumper cables plus a jump box on the other one. No difference. And it doesn't seem like it's laboring to turn over, although, I'm not a long time diesel owner so basically fall into the general category that most people label as Idiots. Maybe what sounds find to me is half of what it needs to be.

I took off the fuel filter, and she's full up. I pressed that nifty little air bleeder off the fuel filter and it was rather anti-climatic since nothing happened.

One thing I forgot about is the 2 minutes rule. I would let it crank for maybe 5 to 8 seconds - seldom 10 seconds or more. But then I would get impatient and try again while pumping the accelerator (more bad gas habits) hoping, praying actually, that it would just start. Could I have burned the starter out? I have replaced that since owning the vehicle, but as I recall, it made a clicking noise and didn't work at all when I did the swap.

It currently just grinds and grinds and grinds and refuses to catch. I'm hesitant to try the ether since everybody agrees that's bad, but I did try it a few times with no real affect other than sort of a bang and whimper, but not firing over.

Could it be just air in the lines? Can someone explain step-by-step how to bleed the lines? Like I said, I'm game to try anything, but don't want to set it back further because when she ran, she ran good. Just towed a boat across WA state (300 miles) and it didn't miss a beat....

Thanks for any help you might be able to offer (even if it's just a mechanic local to Everett, WA)!

 

Mine recently did this to me but it has had a few other problems too! Ok here is what you need to do if you have an electric fuel pump turn it on then push the valve above the fuel filter (if you don't push it while you have someone crank on it) after you get all the air out (if any) then while cranking her over loosen the top of each injector line (one at a time till you have no bubbling) then tighten them back down

That is the only way I know how to bleed the system and if you have a lift pump I would suggest making sure that it's pumping properly and in my own opinion get rid of it put a cover plate over the hole and run an electric (if you don't already have one)

 

Sounds like you lift pump went south on you. Do a check by removing the core from that "nifty little air bleeder", (schrader valve) and place a hose over the stem, and route it into a clean container (soda bottle?). Crank it over for 10 seconds and you should get 1/3 pint. If you don't get at least that amount the lift pump needs to be replaced.

 

I second the lift pump test as a place to start. If the pump tests good then check for fuel at the injectors as described in post #2.

 

Ok, thanks. I saw posts about collecting diesel in a jar, but I didn't realize how simple it would be to remove that core from the Schrader Valve to hook up a hose.

If I find that the lift pump is still working, then does the fuel line bleeding begin at the injectors? Or do I need to start upstream at the fuel filter and the every helpful Schrader value? And once I get to the injectors, does order matter? Intuitively, I would start bleeding at the first injector in the distribution chain, but would feel better if someone confirmed that for me. Also, in a YouTube video somebody said you could do a whole bank (4) of them at once, then jump over to the other side. I would think one-at-a-time, although taking somewhat longer would be better.

Finally, if the lift pump is shot, then would it be worth the trouble to put in an electric pump? I see quite a few advocates of that approach, but it seems like a bit of work to reroute fuel lines and identify the proper place to tie in the wiring.

Thanks all - today I'm going to learn something. Can't wait for the sun to come up!

 

Since you are below 1/4 of a tank of fuel, put 5 gallons in the tank you are pulling fuel from. The strainer foot has a tendency to rot off, and you will suck air at around a 1/4 tank. But if that was the case, you should get air out of the schrader valve when pressed while cranking.
As for bleeding, the pump is self bleeding. and the injectors will also self bleed. Cracking the lines open will just get the air out a little faster.
On the lift pump, I like the old mechanical one, others swear by an electrical one, it is all what you want to run.

 

All your injector linse are the same length. Crack them all until they are wet then tighten them. But if your lift pump went there may not be very much air in there at all because the pump didnt push it in there. Replace the pump and give it a shot, maybe just crack 2 on each side that way if there is air in there you have enough of them bled to run.

 

when it comes to fuel delivery,what do you want happen WHEN the most common issue of this engine arises and the fuel has returned to the tanks?
A.use the starter to spin the mechanical fuel pump to prime the system and finally start the truck OR;
B.install an electric pump and just turn the key (or devoted switch) to let a little low amp pump (well under 5 amps) prime the system for you in just a few seconds and be on your way,saving all that cranking on them expensive high torque diesel starters?

i went for option B before my truck hit the road.
(my truck always starts inside one second..........yes including first cold start of the day. this remains my single favorite mod.)

 

Added 5 gallons of diesel, got the air bleeder valve off the Schrader unit, attached a hose, cranked for 10 second. Not a drop of diesel.

Now to decide on electrical pump bypass and what the odds are of getting a decent one at O'Reillys.

 

Here's some good stuff on e pump https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s....php?t=1096773

 

Check this out: outAirtex E8011 - Electric Fuel Pump | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Sorry about the dueling threads. It was the fuel pump and I have a lifetime replacement with Schuck's so went ahead and got it replaced. Then followed directions for bleeding through the Schrader valve. Fired up first time, it was awesome!!! Thanks to everyone who pitched in to help a newbie.

(I may convert to an e-pump some other day - it sounds like a much better way to go!)

 

Hey all I can say is I have only been on here for a couple months but I have gathered a TON of info I share what I have learned and I am happy too I think most people are as long as you take it to heart and don't ask it 20 times lol but it's no problem

 

Thanks for posting what the problem was, many times we don't hear what the problem ended up being.

 

says its 6volt

how many gpm would it flow?