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Alright, I know many don't believe this is the correct method. Got ya. Please don't bother posting if that's all you have to say.
I'm at 10,500 miles with zero issues. I am doing the EGR Delete, Coolant Filter and a Coolant Flush over the weekend once I order it all and it all arrives. I'll have 2 days to get the truck done and back on the road. Will also pull the turbo out and clean the vanes while doing the new Up-Pipe.
So what is the best torque procedure for the stud replacement 1 by 1?
Go straight to final torque on each one as replaced?
or
Torque to the value the factory bolts are at, then go to final torque using a torque pattern and 20 ft/lb increments on all 10 bolts (basically as if I had pulled head and was doing fresh torquing)?
I am a Nuclear Mechanic for the Navy and we have procedures for 1 to 1 replacements on our high pressure systems. While not perhaps the best method, it is a viable option that will work.
Again, I know that many frown on this. And if I had even a single indication of problems, I would yank the heads and do this "the proper way".
From my point of view, I can spend a few hours doing this and have years of no worry and no problems. Or I can pull the heads, get them checked/decked and have the truck down for 1-2 weeks...which is not an option at the moment. Worst case, a HG blows and I must re-do this at some point in the future.
I have no idea on the studs although I have heard of guys doing this successfully. My concern with your plan, although I am no expert, if you are going to flush the system and you use any chemicals like vc-9 you should consider changing the oil cooler as well. Some have had them plug after a VC-9 flush. If just using water I would think your ok. Just a rookies opinion.
Autonuz is correct if you are going that far in do the oil cooler while your there couple hundred bucks and piece of mind. And far as the studs go most will say no but hell that kind of millage i would consider one at a time.
The general procedure for replacing fasteners 1 for 1 (as you thought) is to remove a single fastener and torque the replacement to the original torque. I would not go over the original torque *at all* because a stud-nut fastener will give a slightly higher clamping force than a head-bolt due to the less friction loss during tightening.
What we are trying to do, is to not disturb the gasket during the replacement process. Once all the headbolts are replaced, torque to the new torque value using the correct torque sequence.
We used to do 1 for 1 fastener replacements all the time at Pearl Harbor (fellow submariner) and at just about any other repair activity.
This works **only** if the gasket did not leak before the fastener replacement process. Doing this sort of replacement instead of a head removal - inspect - gasket replace process is a personal choice. Any Nuke mechanic should be able to tackle this job.
I think this will work great for you. Others on this site have done it with good results. Now is the time to do it before you have any gasket failure. Even if the gaskets had started to fail it is sure worth a try. Do some research on this site as directions are here.
If the gaskets arn't broke don't fix them. Most of the people who think this is the wrong way never made a living with wrenches. One at a time works for me.
thx guys. I figured if the process was good for subsafe joints, it was good enough for my truck. I'll replace all the bolts with studs at the current torque, then go through and final torque in increments to the ARP value using the factory pattern
reason I'm doing this is because while the truck doesn't have any issues at the moment, very soon she will be getting tuned and I do drive kinda hard.
Keep us in the loop i'm curious on the failure rate of this. So far I have read a bunch of just don't do its. And the ones that have done it have had no problems.
I'm going to do it too. I have a bunch of bad injectors that I'm going to replace, and I'm going to do it while I'm in there. The truck has a lot of miles on it (200,000) but has never had a gasket problem, and I want to tune it. If it doesn't work, I'm not out anything.
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