Head stud swap procedure
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
Head stud swap procedure
"Frank" (the engine name) is getting a head stud swap without pulling the heads. The engine is on the stand right now, but because of the torque involved, I'm seriously contemplating putting it in a floor crate I built - to take all that twist without it trying to escape like a child in the dentist's chair.
My master plan is to pull one at a time, then torque the new one in before going to the next. I can look it up if I don't get the answer here, but I wanted to know the torque spec to share in this dedicated thread (complete with relevant tags).
What about anti-seize? Is there a recommended type, or just a spec for handling at least a specific temperature? I have the nickle anti-seize for the exhaust manifold bolts, and I wanted to know if that will work for the head studs.
Are there any other details that should be included in this thread?
My master plan is to pull one at a time, then torque the new one in before going to the next. I can look it up if I don't get the answer here, but I wanted to know the torque spec to share in this dedicated thread (complete with relevant tags).
What about anti-seize? Is there a recommended type, or just a spec for handling at least a specific temperature? I have the nickle anti-seize for the exhaust manifold bolts, and I wanted to know if that will work for the head studs.
Are there any other details that should be included in this thread?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 868
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Verify this, but IIRC, you pull one bolt at a time in order of torque sequence, install the stud, torque to 90ft lbs, then go to the next one. After they're all in, you go back and torque to 125ft lbs. shouldn't be too hard to do it on the stand. I can't remember if those specs are with oil or arp torque lube.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
"Frank" (the engine name) is getting a head stud swap without pulling the heads. The engine is on the stand right now, but because of the torque involved, I'm seriously contemplating putting it in a floor crate I built - to take all that twist without it trying to escape like a child in the dentist's chair.
My master plan is to pull one at a time, then torque the new one in before going to the next. I can look it up if I don't get the answer here, but I wanted to know the torque spec to share in this dedicated thread (complete with relevant tags).
What about anti-seize? Is there a recommended type, or just a spec for handling at least a specific temperature? I have the nickle anti-seize for the exhaust manifold bolts, and I wanted to know if that will work for the head studs.
Are there any other details that should be included in this thread?
My master plan is to pull one at a time, then torque the new one in before going to the next. I can look it up if I don't get the answer here, but I wanted to know the torque spec to share in this dedicated thread (complete with relevant tags).
What about anti-seize? Is there a recommended type, or just a spec for handling at least a specific temperature? I have the nickle anti-seize for the exhaust manifold bolts, and I wanted to know if that will work for the head studs.
Are there any other details that should be included in this thread?
It is straight forward. Make sure you vac any fluid out of the bolt hole, make sure threads are not galled, use arp lube for each stud. Anti seize is not necessary, thats what the lube is for.
I follow the pattern at start at #1, take the bolt out and drop the stud in a tad past finger tight, torque to Ford spec (105 ft/lbs for 1994-97, 95 ft/lbs for SD motors), do all of them this way, then go back and crank to 125 and you are done. Its as easy as replacng lug nuts...one at a time....
It is fairly easy on a block stand. if you don't have a friends hands for the sequence, then use a couple of tie downs down to the legs of the stand to prevent rotation....7.3s are easy, 6.0s and 6.4s are not! 210 and 275 ft/bs respectively.....
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From: Puget Sound
Is there some metallurgical reason I wouldn't tighten each one to full torque, since I'm going one by one? The ARP PDF (thank you for that) just covers a full head install, not a stud swap.
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From: Puget Sound
In my pea brain, I'm thinking an even squish would be done by way of not backing off the force any longer than you have to. I totally get the new gasket and fresh install thing, but I theorize the full torque per bolt method works better with a seasoned gasket.
I'm not arguing or disagreeing with anybody here, I just want a thorough understanding.
I just verified - all holes are blind. No need to worry about that line in the instructions regarding thread sealant and the coolant jacket. I wish that line was omitted from the sheet, it raises eyebrows unnecessarily.
I'm not arguing or disagreeing with anybody here, I just want a thorough understanding.
I just verified - all holes are blind. No need to worry about that line in the instructions regarding thread sealant and the coolant jacket. I wish that line was omitted from the sheet, it raises eyebrows unnecessarily.
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Cargo Master
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All the bolts in there are currently at 105, you install the new to 105 to keep an even pressure, then increase the pressure.... I'm sure going straight to 125 would be fine...its just how I have done it for years now when not disturbing a gasket. Hasn't failed yet! takes a tad bit more time, but why change...
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Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
All the bolts in there are currently at 105, you install the new to 105 to keep an even pressure, then increase the pressure.... I'm sure going straight to 125 would be fine...its just how I have done it for years now when not disturbing a gasket. Hasn't failed yet! takes a tad bit more time, but why change...
Ah... I get it now. I don't want to have one bolt at 125, then right next to it, go down to 0 then back up. Going from 0 to 125 to match the surrounding bolts is one thing, but going below and then over the surrounding 105 bolts - not so ideal.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
I was thinking rotate the engine 45 degrees off level to get the studs horizontal, get a big breaker bar, then do the torque by pulling up on the handle. Lifting on the engine won't do anything to make the stand try to crawl. If that's clear as mud, I'll take pictures.
