Auto HUBS!!!!
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Junior User
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Auto HUBS!!!!
Hey guys, I've been searching on here for a bit now and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. First things first. I got the Ex stuck yesterday when the hitch grounded out and I didn't have 4 wheel drive bc of the auto hubs. The front right one is not engaging. Great when you have a 8' utility trailer on it and you stuck going up a little hill. Gets some good laughs from my buddies.
I put manual hubs on the bronco and I'm assuming this should be right along the same lines as those. Am I correct with the research in saying that my 2000 Ex V10 has a D50 (30 Spline) front axle?
Also is there anything I could to get the auto hub to work to get me by for a little bit longer, manuals are in the $300 dollar price tag and its not in the budget this month?
I put manual hubs on the bronco and I'm assuming this should be right along the same lines as those. Am I correct with the research in saying that my 2000 Ex V10 has a D50 (30 Spline) front axle?
Also is there anything I could to get the auto hub to work to get me by for a little bit longer, manuals are in the $300 dollar price tag and its not in the budget this month?
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Junior User
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they won't engage with vacuum. I have KMC rockstarts on the front with covered center caps so I will have to remove the caps and take a look. I did not know i could do it manual. I didn't know that was an option! Does it look like a regular ford manual turn handle?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
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From: Scio, OR
You can get Warn Premium manual hubs for your application (Part # 38826) for $204.91 from Amazon.
Amazon.com: WARN 38826 Premium Manual Hub Kit: Automotive
Or you can get Warn Standards for $181.30.
Amazon.com: WARN 11690 Locking Hub Kit: Automotive
Amazon.com: WARN 38826 Premium Manual Hub Kit: Automotive
Or you can get Warn Standards for $181.30.
Amazon.com: WARN 11690 Locking Hub Kit: Automotive
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From: Michigan
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Junior User
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Thanks for the help guys, I guess I'm gonna start with checking the vacuum lines and pull the cover and see if I can even get them to move manually, hope that can get me through till winter, and I'll replace them before the snow flies (right around the corner already). RLH thanks for the input and thanks to Chamberlian for the Amazon look, I didn't even think to look there, Do I need to buy the spindle nut conversion that I've seen on gowarn.com?
I don't use the 4 wheel a lot in the summer, only when playing and with working 7 days a week I don't have a ton of time to play, I have a good feeling that this is one of the big reasons they are in-op right now.
Thanks again.
Also am I correct with saying that the front is a Dana 50 (30 spline) or do I need to let everyone know more info then I've already stated?
I don't use the 4 wheel a lot in the summer, only when playing and with working 7 days a week I don't have a ton of time to play, I have a good feeling that this is one of the big reasons they are in-op right now.
Thanks again.
Also am I correct with saying that the front is a Dana 50 (30 spline) or do I need to let everyone know more info then I've already stated?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
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From: Scio, OR
You shouldn't need anything other than the part # listed. They show in the Warn catalog as '99-'04 F250, F350 and Excursion.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 566
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From: Virginia
Check your vacuum lines to make sure they are 1) not dry rotten and cracked possibly allowing a leak and 2) disconnected even partially at the top right by the shock. This connection doesn't hold all that well. I replaced my vacuum lines because mine were dry rotten and I used a zip tie around this connection sort of like a hose clamp. It seems to work but is still not great. Also, depending on year your owner's manual may be backwards if you have referred to it on hub operation. Mine are in the lock position when turned clockwise, and auto when turned counter clockwise. My manual is bass ackwards.
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Junior User
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Thanks for the input guys, I checked the vacuum lines today before i went to work and they are pretty much shot, so I'm thinking I'm gonna start off with replacing those to see where that gets me. I won't have time tomorrow before work to see how far the lines travel and I'm just gonna replace them all considering vacuum hose is inexpensive. How much ball park should I get? And I'm gonna use that idea of the zip ties. because the one on the right side pulled right off as soon as I touched it.
On a tech side note, I thought fords fail safe was for the hub to engage if there was no vacuum? That when you have the engine running the vacuum actually turns the hub out? I'm assuming that I have this *** backwards?
On a tech side note, I thought fords fail safe was for the hub to engage if there was no vacuum? That when you have the engine running the vacuum actually turns the hub out? I'm assuming that I have this *** backwards?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Thanks for the input guys, I checked the vacuum lines today before i went to work and they are pretty much shot, so I'm thinking I'm gonna start off with replacing those to see where that gets me. I won't have time tomorrow before work to see how far the lines travel and I'm just gonna replace them all considering vacuum hose is inexpensive. How much ball park should I get? And I'm gonna use that idea of the zip ties. because the one on the right side pulled right off as soon as I touched it.
On a tech side note, I thought fords fail safe was for the hub to engage if there was no vacuum? That when you have the engine running the vacuum actually turns the hub out? I'm assuming that I have this *** backwards?
On a tech side note, I thought fords fail safe was for the hub to engage if there was no vacuum? That when you have the engine running the vacuum actually turns the hub out? I'm assuming that I have this *** backwards?
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bigdawg460
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Oct 14, 2009 05:26 PM
