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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Timing bump a 96' OBD2?

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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
on the same note I just want to ask to be sure and also to get this info posted (hey why not its on topic ) if im going to bump the timing to 14BTDC will I need to mess with any thing else like the cam, plus, valves, ect, ect, ect I read about the 6L tune and want to see if I can do the timing change with out having to mess with other things/reprogram the ECU or what ever is in the 5.0L trucks (i would assume theres an ECU in these things...) cus im thinking of getting the truck tuned up soon and im thinking of bumping the timing to 14BTDC when I go to get new plugs and do the tune up...
What you're doing, is increasing the "rate" of compression by modding the spark ignition in relationship to to the position of the pistons in their cycle. <-I think that explanation will fly. Obviously your compression "ratio" stays the same.

Read this. Bumping your base time is no joke. Prepare your engine prior: About the Ign. sys./timing bump. - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

Once again..."NO" active error codes or continuous memory codes!

Many of the older & very learned members here don't mention this Mod, because from past experience, people don't prep their engines adequately for the extra stress that they are asking of their engine. Factory Base time is 10 BTDC for a real world reason. They (Factory) expect most trucks not to be adequately maintained.

This allows it to continue an acceptable level of drivability for as long as possible. Not particularly impressive, but it'll still get you from point A to point B & back. The ignition system upgrade, combined w/ timing bump it the only mod I know of that can increase performance & MPG at the same time.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 09:46 PM
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ok, so if im understanding the post correctly im going to want to upgrade the ignition system, seafoam the engine and vac lines and new motorcraft plugs. yes im reading it for the 5th time now LOL!! also oil "upgrade" seems to be waranted which is out of the way since I use full synthetics in the truck anyways...
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
ok, so if im understanding the post correctly im going to want to upgrade the ignition system, seafoam the engine and vac lines and new motorcraft plugs. yes im reading it for the 5th time now LOL!! also oil "upgrade" seems to be waranted which is out of the way since I use full synthetics in the truck anyways...
Atta boy! You'll get a very dependable running truck out of the adventure too!
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 06:53 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Atta boy! You'll get a very dependable running truck out of the adventure too!

hey dependable is good music to my ears man!!! dependable means its worth the trouble!!! would MSD ignition upgrades (if you wanna call them that) help at all or just hinder every thing? im gonna take the stock roter cap thing (distributer?) out and replace it with something better for this, want it to run smooth
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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I did reset the PSOM to reflect the larger tires, also started with new autolite pugs and Taylor wires. I did keep the stock coil.
 

Last edited by BLK79; Sep 4, 2011 at 11:52 AM. Reason: punctuation
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
hey dependable is good music to my ears man!!! dependable means its worth the trouble!!! would MSD ignition upgrades (if you wanna call them that) help at all or just hinder every thing? im gonna take the stock roter cap thing (distributer?) out and replace it with something better for this, want it to run smooth
A brass Cap & rotor set, to me is a "no brainer". Not only will it allow for a hotter coil upgrade, it will dependably outlast a "stock grade", set 2 to 1.

Coil output degrades over time/use. Talk to a 30K volt coil after some year's of service, It's very likely it ain't talkin quite so loud. Ever wonder why Ford give's you a Plug Gap range (.052-.056), rather than just (.054)?

Personally, I run a 60K Volt, low Ohm Coil. If you upgrade your stock coil, I suggest at least a 48K volt low Ohm(like .35 Ohm.) When picking a coil, three things to consider. Output. Primary resistance. Turn ratio.

You can do better for less money by going w/ other than MSD Brand.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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oh, what brand would you suggest for most bang for my buck?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
oh, what brand would you suggest for most bang for my buck?


I use Pertronex.


Accel make a 48K volt/ low Ohm/ 125 turn model. Better #'s & less $ than MSD's equivalent.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56


I use Pertronex.


Accel make a 48K volt/ low Ohm/ 125 turn model. Better #'s & less $ than MSD's equivalent.

That's purty
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
That's purty
Yea it is. Aircraft aluminum. But as w/ most purdy things... they can make you cry. Before I installed MSD 8.5 Superconductor wires (Very-very good wires, but expensive), I grounded while bumping the timing on the fly. 60K volt's of "OMG!".

.35 Ohm primary resistance also sync's w/ all ignition box's, however I think they're a waste on low compression engines if you've upgraded your coil voltage & increased your gap size already. 11:1 compression, or our 9:1's w/ a stock voltage coil, you have a valid argument for them though.

On the wires, Ford Racing 9's are great & Taylor 8.0 Spyro- Pro's or Taylor 8.3 Thunderbolt's are a heck of a good wire for the money! I bent over a bit for the Superconductors, but you can't buy a better spec wire, & they last & last w/ unflinching dependability.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 08:28 PM
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I'm running 12* base timing on my '96... Stock coil, Motorcraft everything else including copper plugs. It hardly ever pings on 87 octane.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 94MustangGT
I'm running 12* base timing on my '96... Stock coil, Motorcraft everything else including copper plugs. It hardly ever pings on 87 octane.
Add a bottle of "Water Wetter" to your 50/50 coolant mix. Should lose the occasional ping. Might even got another degree of advance! It's all about keeping combustion chamber temps below Ping threshold Temp. Even "Hardly Pings" ain't good. I would not go up an octane, but I would address making your coolant system more effective. W/W is also an excellent corrosion agent & water pump lubricant. Motorcraft coppers are actually designed to fail before a constant ping condition damages your engine, but it's not something to bet your engine on. "Occasional pings" add up. Err on the side of safety.



(similar results w/ non- aluminum blocks)
 
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