When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
you need a timing light and the specs, I am not sure on the spec but I am sure it is around here somewere. But to set the timing you need to find the degree numbers on the harmonic balancer ( the big pully at the bottom center of the engine. Mark on it at the 0^ a line with white-out. Next mark the degree number on the timing cover at the number you want your timing set to. Then clip the two battery leads to the battery and the other to the #1 sparkplug wire. Then slightly loosen the bolt that secures the distributor to the manifold, not so loose the the dist. will rotate easy, you want resistance. The remove the vacuume hose connected to the vacuume advance, plug the hose. Then you start the truck, make sure there is nothing in the way. Then use the timing light to set your timing by spotting the gun at the timing cover mark and watching for the 0^ line on the balancer come around. Rotate distributer to get timing marks in line then tighten the locking bolt. Turn off engine and connect and disconect on order of placement. Hope this helps.
Robert
72 F100 Ranger XLT W/ 86 5.0L W/ AOD www.geocities.com/krazdndenver
well i guess i need to start from the beginning. i had to replace my heads on a 351m. i put everything back together. i replaced the wires, plugs(autolite), points, condensor, rotor button, dist. cap, and the coil. i got 12v going to the coil and to the points when they are open. im also getting gas in the carb, but for some reason. my truck will not start. i didn't have to move the dist. because(as you already know) its in front of the intake. could the timing be off? the carb is spewing gas and smoke along with the fire when i turn the key over to start it. the points is setting on .018. what i wanted to know was how can you set the timing when it won't run?
Actually two separate adjustments on the older point/coil system. You'll want to set the dwell first, then the timing. Anytime you change the dwell, the timing changes a bit.
Crank the engine over by hand in the direction of rotation with
a wrench at the pulley on the crankshaft while you caaarreeefully watch the next point lobe on the dizzy, when the rubbing block is juust peaked, (it might take a few tries) then set the gap, if you look on the side of the points you'll see the slot that's used to tweak open the points with a flat tip screwdriver while at the same time you can leave the set screw a bit tight with tension on the points so there's no slop or slippage.
Set the points to spec and give it a try. If necessary rotate the whole dizzy assembly by loosening the 1/2" bolt, and set to an approximation of where it was. This should get you close enough for the engine to start timing wise. Later you can go back with a dwell meter and re-set the points (dwell) a bit closer, don't worry what the nominal air gap measurement is, if the dwell is in spec that's what counts. Dwell refers the amount of time the points actually remain open, allowing the coil to charge back up. Timing refers to that point where the spark plug fires in each cylinder during the ignition phase - usually a few degrees before the piston reaches the top of its' stroke or expressed as, say, 8 deg BTDC, before top dead center.
Anyway, advance the timing by rotating the distributer cap ***'y counterclockwise in small increments, timing is just right if it doesn't ping or knock under load and heavy acceleration. If it starts to knock, retard the timing by rotating the dizzy in the opposite direction. Let us know what you find...
Something you can do (I had success with this) is: use a remote starter (I used a screwdriver on the starter selonoid) to crank the engine over. Rotate the distrubtor while cranking the engine till it fires up. Once it's running, you can put a light on it.