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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Codes Help! 1994 F150 Help Video!

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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:40 PM
  #1  
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Post Codes Help! 1994 F150 Help Video!

TRUCK IN SIG!
This thread goes for my other thread here.
After viewing the videos, help me diagnose my problem as stated
in the thread provided!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-injector.html

KOEO
<iframe width="640" height="510" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WI5l0b7u3qE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

This is the video I made while trying to pull codes. (About 3rd time I've pulled codes, so I made video to double check myself)

Codes: 522, 173

KOER SKIP TO 1:15
<iframe width="640" height="510" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9Qd0s8mRjvA?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also another video I made while pulling codes.

Codes: 116, 173

Did I get it right? Also I need help knowing what they are! My symptoms are in the thread above!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #2  
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From: Easton,Ks
Yes you got it right except the first 173 is not a KOEO code it is a CM code.

KOEO 522
CM 173
KOER 116 & 173

KOEO DTC 522 Clutch not in during test.

CM 173 & KOER 173 system indicates rich.

KOER DTC 116 (ECT) indicates that the corresponding sensor is out of Self-Test range. Correct range of measure is 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
Possible causes:
-- Low coolant level (ECT).
-- Faulty harness connector.
-- Faulty sensor.
OR Cold Engine.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 07:34 PM
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Ok, thanks I'm glad I about got it all right.

As for 522, I'm pretty sure my truck was in first gear so it wouldn't roll. M5OD.

ECT should be in good working condition.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 05:08 AM
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You have to hold the clutch to the floor during the test to keep 522 from coming up. Also, on the temp sensor code, if the truck was not warmed to operating temperature when running the test, it can throw a code for the temp sensor even if it is o.k.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 05:34 AM
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The still shots from the videos (I didn't watch the vids) show that the engine is NOT up to operating temperature, which, as epncsu2006 said, will cause the computer to throw the code 116.

Jason
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 07:31 AM
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No it wasn't at operating temp. I just started it up and started scanning. Ok so I know 116 and 522 would be gone if I had held the clutch and if it was at operating temperature.

Just gotta replace the exhaust system and O2 sensor so it'll stop running rich I'm guessing.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:31 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Alec94F150XL
No it wasn't at operating temp. I just started it up and started scanning. Ok so I know 116 and 522 would be gone if I had held the clutch and if it was at operating temperature.

Just gotta replace the exhaust system and O2 sensor so it'll stop running rich I'm guessing.
Did you check the Fuel Pressure Regulator by removing the vacuum hose from the nipple on top and turning the key on with a cold engine?
If you see any fuel at all it is bad and will cause a rich code and poor running.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
Did you check the Fuel Pressure Regulator by removing the vacuum hose from the nipple on top and turning the key on with a cold engine?
If you see any fuel at all it is bad and will cause a rich code and poor running.
Right now my engine is at operating temp so I'm going to scan again because my CEL came on about 5 minutes ago, and I just got home. So I will post new codes or it might be the same ones.

I will check that hose later tonight.

Also which is the FPR?

Which is the EGR? My hose isn't green. I'm going to do that restrictor plate.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
FPR:


/
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 11:27 AM
  #10  
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Ok I will test that tonight. Ran the codes for CEL and they were the same, but without 116. I even held the clutch in and I still got 522?

Also I just went over to my muffler shop and they checked out my system and said I have a crack/leak on the manifolds but catback looks great. Also my cats aren't clogged.

So I'm thinking I'm gunna upgrade to these Hedman Hedders, while I'm at it.

Hedman Hedders 89300 - Hedman Street Hedders - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Guess I just have to check the FPR and the O2 sensor.

So I'm understanding that if the I can see fuel coming from the nipple of the FPR then that's bad. So IF that does happen, do I replace the FPR?
 

Last edited by Alec94F150XL; Aug 30, 2011 at 11:31 AM. Reason: OOPS!
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:04 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Alec94F150XL
So I'm understanding that if the I can see fuel coming from the nipple of the FPR then that's bad. So IF that does happen, do I replace the FPR?
Yes you must replace the FPR if fuel comes out of it.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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Ok thank you for the advice.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 04:03 AM
  #13  
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Ok sorry for the wait. But I finally had my truck off long enough for it to be considered cold. And while the light was up!

Anyways, the FPR did not leak any fuel. So it checks out. So I am planning on doing that EGR restrictor plate.

Also, I am pretty sure the truck has the original timing belt in it, so with all the play the engine has gotten, could it be possible this is the culprit? But I still don't see how it would be "fixed" every time I turn it off/on.

Will be buying a new O2 sensor just in case.
 
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