Can a 1970 f250 be lowered like a f100? What is the difference? Kingpin? Will a DJM kit work? Or is this a whole other animal?

Thanks,
Tim

 

The F-250 usually has a different King pin diameter so drop beams don't work in most cases.

You can get a little trickey for a 2-3 inch drop.

You can re-drill your I beam holes up about a inch. How well this works I do not know, but I have heard this trick used to be done back in the day.

Then you can cut your springs for up to 2" more drop, and bend the beams for the correct camber.

Beyond that your talking major surgery with a Z. I've done it before, but its not for the faint of heart. Then you'll need to re-do your motor mounts, and possabley the tranny mount. Plus with a stick it is not very easy, and I would go with a automatic here.

I would recomend a rear sump pan, heim joints for your tie-rods, and you'll need to fab up some hair pins.

What I did with mine was make the cuts right in front and behind the cross member, and re-weld to the desired drop height. Over 3" is a huge task, and under is not that big a deal. Comparitively anyways.

Cut you springs to match the Z measurement. Verify by using a level on the beams or some other measurement that works for you.

Center your beams, and make up new hair pins 3-4 inches shorter. I used 3/16 C channel to start off, and modded it to work. I used 4 link bushings for the commonality, and adjustability. Then bolted them to the side of the frame in the centered position angled ever so slightly downward. Besure to re-inforce the frame the the hole doesn't get wallowed out.

Re-place your tierod ends with the heim joints, and use a spacer to level off the rod ends. I drilled my spindles so the bolt would be tight, and tacked it into position. This way you don't have to move your column or steering box. Saves tons of work. The bad is that heim joints don't last forever, but there easily re-built for a few bucks. I live in socal, and mine lasted 30,000 miles.

Bolt on your front sump pan, and set your transmission on its crossmemeber to help in alignment. Fab up new motor mounts. I would recomend a 302/351W or 300 I6 here for the shorty headers that are plentifull. Long tubes may not fit anymore.

Combine a up to 3 inch Z with 2 inch bent beams, and you'll be riding pretty low. I would look into 17's or 18's for your F250 to gain rod clearence, but besure to leave a bit of budget if you need it.

When I did mine I had a 74 F100 LB with a 300 I6, and a C4 I had to re-place the stick it came with. I re-drilled the hubs for 5x4.75 for cheap 17's at the time, and got close to a 4 inch Z becouse the C4 is smaller where it counted VS a C6. I used F350 springs, sway bars, and KYB shocks. It would handle quite well for what I have done, and if my steering box was tighter I am sure I could pushed harder. The stock steering box is mushy, and not very inspiring. A good AGR box would of given excellent feedback thus allowing me to easily push harder.

 

If you are even considering Z'ing for a 5" drop while still maintaining the old F250 suspension why not go CV? I got 6" with no major frame mods. 12" rotors, power rack and pinion steering, dual piston calipers. I am assuming you no longer plan on using it as a real truck.

 

Forgot about the CV it is a good way to drop a truck, and offer alot for the cost.