Digital Clock
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
For programming, on the earlier version of the clock you must set the time first. Pull out the Time button until it locks, and then push either the left of the round buttons to set hours or the right round button to set minutes. And then push the Time button back in.
To set date, once the time has been set, pull out the Date button until it locks and then push either the left of the round buttons to set month or the right round button to set date. And then push the Date button back in.
It appears that there is no requirement to set the time first on the later clocks as that requirement is not mentioned in the '85 owner's guide. However, there is a difference in setting either time or date as the Time and Date buttons are to be held in during the process - not pulled out.
To set date, once the time has been set, pull out the Date button until it locks and then push either the left of the round buttons to set month or the right round button to set date. And then push the Date button back in.
It appears that there is no requirement to set the time first on the later clocks as that requirement is not mentioned in the '85 owner's guide. However, there is a difference in setting either time or date as the Time and Date buttons are to be held in during the process - not pulled out.
Last edited by Gary Lewis; Aug 29, 2011 at 10:03 AM. Reason: To Get The Facts RIGHT
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
There are two pieces of polarized glass to make that display work
The black spot could be the liquid crystal and the display is damaged, or just a burn mark from the bulb;
but can't really tell without seeing it.
You shouldn't be able to see characters though with your flashlight if it was the display and not the bulb. Or you would see all 88:88s lit up.
The black spot could be the liquid crystal and the display is damaged, or just a burn mark from the bulb;
but can't really tell without seeing it.You shouldn't be able to see characters though with your flashlight if it was the display and not the bulb. Or you would see all 88:88s lit up.
As for seeing the digits, after I removed the black face plate, I can clearly see 88:88 in white. What does this mean?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Perhaps somebody could explain how to program it? When I hit "Date", all I get is two vertical lines. "E-Time" begins counting up from zero. "Time" displayed 12:00. How do I go about setting everything up? I assume the two smaller buttons have something to do with it.
BTW welcome to FTE.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
If the clock was plugged in and set to the correct time as example, the display would black out portions of the 88:88, or your display and would look like; EE:EE for 11:11 with the front removed.
hopefully this is making sence.
In the example the EE:EE is dark, and the 11:11 is clear. the white you are seeing in the 88:88 display is a reflective surface for the backlight to reflect off of. With the polarized glass the display looks black untill a colored light can shine through it.
Polarized glass is also used in sunglasses.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
The black face plate has one of the polarized glass panels most likely.
If the clock was plugged in and set to the correct time as example, the display would black out portions of the 88:88, or your display and would look like; EE:EE for 11:11 with the front removed.
hopefully this is making sence.
In the example the EE:EE is dark, and the 11:11 is clear. the white you are seeing in the 88:88 display is a reflective surface for the backlight to reflect off of. With the polarized glass the display looks black untill a colored light can shine through it.
Polarized glass is also used in sunglasses.
If the clock was plugged in and set to the correct time as example, the display would black out portions of the 88:88, or your display and would look like; EE:EE for 11:11 with the front removed.
hopefully this is making sence.
In the example the EE:EE is dark, and the 11:11 is clear. the white you are seeing in the 88:88 display is a reflective surface for the backlight to reflect off of. With the polarized glass the display looks black untill a colored light can shine through it.
Polarized glass is also used in sunglasses.
So this means that my display is most likely fine, but my backlight is bad?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I can't hold it in any longer, I'm shocked and dismayed that you would suggest an approach like this.
Well, kinda....
I personally hate cutting any factory harness but, when I do, I solder and shrink-wrap it all back up to make it as good as (or better than) the original wiring.
I'm glad you suggested removing the terminals from the connector and connecting them into the other side, but wrapping it all up in tape??????
I guess that would work to keep the dust & dirt out, but why not get the right connector from the JY and attach everything proper? IMHO it makes for a neater, more reliable connection.
Don't take offense at this (that's the last thing I want) but my mind instantly went to some of the halfassed hacks I've see in the yards, I cringe when I look at that stuff.....
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Chris - No offense taken. The tape job I did locks the terminals into the other connector very tightly as it starts on that connector and takes a couple of wraps tightly around it and then gradually wraps down the wires toward the clock.
I've not had a problem with connections of that sort for things like clocks. But, when I do critical things like ignition systems, lighting, or especially alarm systems I solder and shrink wrap them. However, I refuse to use insulation displacement connectors, meaning the ones that cut into the insulation on a wire. Nor do I just crimp a connection, even though I have a crimp tool like the pro's use. I crimp and then solder, and cover that with shrink wrap.
I've wired everything from 8085 computers to boat trailers, and don't have problems with my connections. But, I do adapt the type of connection to the intended usage.
As for setting the date first, my '82 owners manual says the clock will not function until the date is set. And, my experience confirms that.
I've not had a problem with connections of that sort for things like clocks. But, when I do critical things like ignition systems, lighting, or especially alarm systems I solder and shrink wrap them. However, I refuse to use insulation displacement connectors, meaning the ones that cut into the insulation on a wire. Nor do I just crimp a connection, even though I have a crimp tool like the pro's use. I crimp and then solder, and cover that with shrink wrap.
I've wired everything from 8085 computers to boat trailers, and don't have problems with my connections. But, I do adapt the type of connection to the intended usage.
As for setting the date first, my '82 owners manual says the clock will not function until the date is set. And, my experience confirms that.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Alright good. Next question, is the backlight one piece, and a one off unit that I have to rob from another 80-82 clock, or is there a bulb of some type to replace?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Ok, 'tis edited and, I believe, correct. If you agree, Chris, then you could erase all the tracks to there ever having been an error. However, I don't know that it needs to be done immediately as I'm not trying to hide the fact that I'm more fallible than most. And, as this is my 1,000th post, I'm curious to see the "odometer" roll over. I'll see that immediately so whenever is fine. 
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
I went back out this morning to program it. I found the two little buttons to be stiff and not always register when pushed. However, after pushing them for a minute or so, they loosened up and worked out just fine.
Now I need to cut out the slot for it in the bezel. I guess I might be better off doing that than hunting down one with the bezel already opened for a clock. This isn't a show truck, just my daily driver and big toy. Any advice on what to use to cut the plastic without ruining it? I read to sand the edges down with sandpaper once cut out to give it a smoother finish.
Now I need to cut out the slot for it in the bezel. I guess I might be better off doing that than hunting down one with the bezel already opened for a clock. This isn't a show truck, just my daily driver and big toy. Any advice on what to use to cut the plastic without ruining it? I read to sand the edges down with sandpaper once cut out to give it a smoother finish.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Glad you got it to work. As for the bezel, several have said they've used an Exacto knife to cut it out and had no problems. I think it took them several passes due to the thickness of the plastic.
I wasn't quite that adventuresome and put it on the mill and used a 1/16" end mill and then a fine file followed by a bit of sanding.
I wasn't quite that adventuresome and put it on the mill and used a 1/16" end mill and then a fine file followed by a bit of sanding.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
There is a miniature bulb somewhere. How easy it is to replace, I do not know. Most likely it has a wire or pin base that needs to be soldered in.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
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From: Florida