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HELLO,
I will be replaceing my passanger side tie rod in the next week, I've been told that in order to do this I need to have the truck re-alighned, Does anyone know any trick to replace the tie rod without having to get the truck an alighnment?
Couple things you can do. First measure with a ruler that the tie rod stud is the same distance from some point on the tie rod. Also you can count the amount of turns it takes to take the old one off and turn the new one on the same.
Years ago I bought from JC Witney an aluminum tool for doing the toe I and toe out on my trucks. Works great on my 92 F150, 93 Aerostar, 89 bronco II,74 ford Maverick etc With one of those you can get it within a 1/2 of degree toe in or out. Saves time & money on takng in for just a check or when you are changing tie rods. Just incase you have troubles.
and to make it easier on yourself, do not touch the steering wheel once you start the tie rod replacement and leave the front end on the ground, if you jack it up the wheels may move on their own.
the trick i have learned is to wrap a couple times around the tie rod on the threads where the tie rod end stops then turn it off and turn the new one on till it hits the tape.
A friend of mine replaced both tie rods on my 1990 E150 last year. He's a certified mechanic, did the job on the hoist, measured everything, and I still needed an alignment afterwards.
Depends on how bad your tires are on the front. In my case I waited till they were finished and then did the alignment when I replaced the tires. The toe was quite off btw.
Off topic, I find that my twin I beam front end has been terrible on front tires since the day I bought this truck brand new. No amount of aligning or beam twisting has changed a thing.
'
Luckily Costco is really good about replacing tires worn prematurely under their pro-rated warranty.
yeah no matter what twin I beam will chew up tires ... for the record i myself am a certified mechanic and i never claimed you would not need a alignment but it does get the parts close enough that if you are like 90% of truck owners it wont matter... try rotating your tires it will slow the cupping and wear just a thought
Well I have found in my case that the problem with rotation of front to rear is that the perferctly wearing rears then get feathering as soon as they go on the front. I'm resigned to wearing out the fronts BUT I rotate them front only. I.E. left front to right front etc. I know that this makes the tires run in the reverse direction and for the 1st 10 years I had the truck I was told not to run tires that had previously been running in one direction, in the opposite direction. I have now been told by Michelin that reversing the running direction is no problem assuming the tire are not unidirectional.
The next rotation I actualy remove the front tires and reverse them on the rims so that the outside edges run on the inside. Again I will then rotate the fronts only on the next rotation. By then (about 35,000 km on Michelin Radial X tired rated at 140 km) the fronts are shot.
That seem to get me the max out of the fronts and doesn't wear only the outside ribs. It has also allowed me to cash in on premature wearing warranty from Costco since they are worn more or less evenly due to this rotation. Otherwise they would say car defect and not do anything.
just seems like a bunch of hassle i have run my geolander at+ on a 4 wheel rotation and as soon as i can hear the cupping in my fronts i rotate them to the rear in a pattern as such fronts cross and rears straight up without crossing keeps the tires fairly even threw out. to each his own. 93 ext. cab 4x4
The last post by "slave" is what I do and I get decent even wear. I also use a tape measure to measure the inside distance at the front of the front tires half way up and the same for the rear of the front tires. Ideally the measurements should be equal or toed in slightly. Pick the widest part of the tires bulge to measure and your toe will be as good as a shop will do. I try to get it toed in 1/16th of an inch or less.
Mark
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