I have been having a problem recently with my b2 pulling hard to the right when I brake. While Im driving the alighnment is just fine. As soon as I brake the wheel jerks hard to the right and the car swerves. I have replaced the brake pads, and bled the brake lines. Im wondering if anyone can point me towards other components to check. Or reasons this could be occuring.

 

Stuck caliper not moving on left side.
Steering component loose.
Rear brake issue.

Caliper most likely.

 

Did the left side flow as much fluid as the right side when you bled them? Rubber brake hoses plug up after years of use. I've replaced quite a few for this reason. If the caliper is free then you probably have a plugged hose.
Mark

 

did you clean up and lubricate your caliper pins and rails when you changed the pads. I usually take a buffer and clean out all the rust and dirt in there and then apply a silicone paste lubricant (NOT any form of petroleum or grease!) to both the pins and the rails to assure an easy slide. Also if you didn't get it together just right it may put that caliper in a bind and cause grabbing as you described. If it is none of the above then I would confer with everyone else that it is probably the hose. If you get a kink in them (maybe accidentally dropped or let hang during brake job) then it will cause restricted flow and the problems you described. I would replace the hoses on both sides.

 

i know this sounds silly but trust me it works. keep in mind this is a temp fix not a permanent solution. drive in reverse @ a decent speed not to quick but a little quicker than backing out of the drive. then slam on the brakes. i had the same thing happen and a friend told me to try it, i thought he was nuts but i tried it and it worked

 

You are right, iclmbrox, that does sound silly. disk brakes are going to work (or not work) the same way whether in reverse or drive. The only way I can think of that that is even REMOTELY a viable concept is if the problem is in the rear. then again what do I know...I do this for a living. I would HIGHLY recommend getting those brakes looked at soon. If it is a stuck caliper then it could reverse itself at any time and you will have NO BRAKES at all. I assure you that your LIFE is worth more than whatever it will cost to get them fixed...or fix them yourself. Either way...do it soon.

Joe

 

> did you clean up and lubricate your caliper pins and rails
> when you changed the pads

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What caliper pins and rails are there on a BII ????
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Drive the vehicle in stop and go traffic for about ten miles. Drive home, park the truck, and feel the wheels. Usually the one that is locking up will be very hot. Your rear brakes should be very mild when touching the drum through the wheel, the hubs on the front should be hot, but, not enough that you can not keep your hand on it. Do NOT try to touch the rotor or caliper. Just the hub.

Another way to track down this problem is put the vehicle up on jack stands. Lightly apply the brake (vehicle off) until the wheels just catch. Hold in place by a 2x4 or whatever. Then go around and see which wheel is free or has locked up the hardest. Remove wheels and drums. Inspect wheels to see if one side (L 2 R) is worn more than the other.

Look for swollen or split brake lines in the front.

Check that the parking brake works and releases properly. If one rear drum is dragging, you will lose all braking on the side and the vehicle will pull the opposite direction. When lightly applied the left side usually catches first, when applied fully both rear wheels should lock up tight.

If you have a hub that is extremely hot, you most likely have to replace the caliper and/or wheel bearings on the side. Once the hub gets that hot you can usually count on the wheel bearings being toasted or blued from the heat and break down of the grease. The phenolic (plastic) calipers can go at anytime, the cast iron ones from the 84-85 BII seem to last longer. King Caliper (sold through *some* NAPA stores) are probably some of the best calipers you can buy.

I suppose it might be a suspension part, though that usually does not cause a drag to one side if it rides normally otherwise until you hit the brakes. While it is up on jackstand you can do the usual front end tests for the bearings, tierods, and balljoints.

 

[????
What caliper pins and rails are there on a BII ????
????

My b2 is an 87 and it has both guide rails and pins....I wasn't aware that they changed anything on whatever year model YOU have.
If those rails and pins are rusted (as mine were) to the point that they do not allow the caliper to move somewhat freely then it can cause all kinds of break problems. The rails and pins should definately be cleaned out and buffed or wire brushed or something as well as, in my opinion, lubricated so that the caliper has little chance of locking up.