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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Now I'm confused

I have two issues and I think they are both related to timing. I'm just not smart enough to figure it out.

Issue #1 - My truck over heats after I drive it for a while. A slow temperature rise from what I can tell. I have a new RT-139 thermostat. The engine doesn't get too hot but the radiator fluid boils and spills out through the overflow. The fluid is doing it's job but it pays the price for it, so-to-speak.

Issue #2 - The truck stumbles when I mash the accelerator.

This is where I'm confused. The heat is usually from the timing being retarded but the stumble is usually caused from to much advanced timing. Or, I could be wrong all together. It wouldn't be the first time.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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I would get a radiator psi checker, pump it up and see if it leaks off.
Have you had a timing light on it to see where it's at now ?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 11:48 PM
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You could do a leak down test to see if exhaust gases are making their way into the cooling system.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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I've put a timing light on it but the pointer is no where near the degree marks on the balancer. It has a cam in it. If I try to retard it far enough to hit the marks on the balancer then the truck just flat out dies. It's advanced far enough to where the vacuum advance on the distributor is touching the top coolant inlet.

How do I check to see if the exhaust is mixing with the coolant?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 10:01 AM
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I just thought of this. When I had the cap off, the fluid did rise a little bit. Does this mean I have a head gasket leak?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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I'm going to pick up a UView 560000 combustion tester to see if my exhuast ports are mixing with the coolant.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 1977F1504X4AUBURN
I just thought of this. When I had the cap off, the fluid did rise a little bit. Does this mean I have a head gasket leak?
Not necessarily.

Do a google on 'leak down test' there are sites out there with pictures.

Basically, you fill each cylinder - one at a time - with compressed air, and then check for leakage past the rings, valves & head gaskets.

A true leak-down test measures the percentage lost over a certain amount of time and requires two gauges but you don't need to go to that extent; I use the hose from a friend's compression gauge (doesn't have a check valve in it) and hook it up to my air compressor.

Bubbles showing up in the radiator will generally be from a leaking head gasket.

I understand there are also chemicals that can be obtained at an auto parts store that you dump into your coolant that somehow tells you if exhaust gases are present or not, might look into that.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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So, just pull the plugs, pump in some air and watch for bubbles. Sounds easy enough.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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As far as overheating.

Check:
The radiator cap
thermostat (RobertShaw type is best)
Fan, Clutch fans go bad over time, you must have a shroud.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 03:14 PM
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I had put in a new RT139 thermostat but I'll order a Robert Shaw thermostat. What's a good temperature? My fan spins all the time, no clutch. It has a shroud.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 1977F1504X4AUBURN
I've put a timing light on it but the pointer is no where near the degree marks on the balancer. It has a cam in it. If I try to retard it far enough to hit the marks on the balancer then the truck just flat out dies. It's advanced far enough to where the vacuum advance on the distributor is touching the top coolant inlet.

How do I check to see if the exhaust is mixing with the coolant?
First thing you need to do is get a new balancer. The outer ring has slipped so there is no way to tell if the engine is properly timed and you're eventually going to have a balancer failure. Get a new balancer and properly set the timing. If the truck is still overheating, then you can troubleshoot from there.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 12:04 AM
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You'd have to rotate the crank so both valves on the cylinder you're testing are shut otherwise it just goes to the manifolds. Or you can undo the rockers, thats easy if they're non adjustable, just be careful doing them back up.
 
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