Overhead console (grinnergetter style)
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,339
Likes: 32
From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
Overhead console (grinnergetter style)
I saw in grinnergetter's '73 restoration thread, he had built a overhead console to house toggle switches https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ration-22.html (8th post down). He didn't have any specs for it, or how he made it, so I made a template for one that I am making. It's not identical, but it works for me.
Started out with cardboard sheets, and cut the sides. Then cut out the bottom, and tacked it on using (super sticky) aluminum ducting tape.
I then took it down, and figured out the angle i'm using. Tacked it, then stuck it up again.
The final will be either cut out of sheet metal and welded, or thin wood stretched with vinyl to match the seats. Haven't decided if it will house anything yet. grinnergetter has 6 toggles, and i'd like to do that but I only have use for one at the moment. I'll keep this updated.
Dimensions I used (super cab)
Sides: 49" long, 2" tall
Bottom: 49" long, 8" wide
Angled ends: I went in 5 7/8" in from the end, made a mark, then lined up the speed square at the angle I needed.
Started out with cardboard sheets, and cut the sides. Then cut out the bottom, and tacked it on using (super sticky) aluminum ducting tape.
I then took it down, and figured out the angle i'm using. Tacked it, then stuck it up again.
The final will be either cut out of sheet metal and welded, or thin wood stretched with vinyl to match the seats. Haven't decided if it will house anything yet. grinnergetter has 6 toggles, and i'd like to do that but I only have use for one at the moment. I'll keep this updated.
Dimensions I used (super cab)
Sides: 49" long, 2" tall
Bottom: 49" long, 8" wide
Angled ends: I went in 5 7/8" in from the end, made a mark, then lined up the speed square at the angle I needed.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 12
From: NW Indiana
Nice dude.
Don't forget to leave a flange at both ends to tuck it under the trim if you want one that is.
Only difference between yours and mine is I curved the console outward at the ends.
I'm running 6 switches. 2 separate circuits for front bumper lights, 1 for rear bumper lights, 1 for cargo light. Last two are either gonna be for later additions or theft control. Oops.
You can get a bunch of wires down the front pillar and not a job you want to do twice. I thought I was in trouble when I discovered there is no hole in the passenger side for more wires.
Can't wait to see it finished.
Don't forget to leave a flange at both ends to tuck it under the trim if you want one that is.
Only difference between yours and mine is I curved the console outward at the ends.
I'm running 6 switches. 2 separate circuits for front bumper lights, 1 for rear bumper lights, 1 for cargo light. Last two are either gonna be for later additions or theft control. Oops.
You can get a bunch of wires down the front pillar and not a job you want to do twice. I thought I was in trouble when I discovered there is no hole in the passenger side for more wires.
Can't wait to see it finished.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,339
Likes: 32
From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
I
Yeah my metal working skills are non-existant, so i didn't want to complicate things more then i had too.
I figure what i'll end up doing poking holes through on the drivers side for single throw toggles, and filling them up as i go. Right now i only have one double throw for my siren, and i plan on getting cab lights, rear flood light, and front fogs.
I'm going to leave the bottom front open for mounting a cb, and the back might house some led light strips for when i have parties in my truck
Nice dude.
Don't forget to leave a flange at both ends to tuck it under the trim if you want one that is.
Only difference between yours and mine is I curved the console outward at the ends.
I'm running 6 switches. 2 separate circuits for front bumper lights, 1 for rear bumper lights, 1 for cargo light. Last two are either gonna be for later additions or theft control. Oops.
You can get a bunch of wires down the front pillar and not a job you want to do twice. I thought I was in trouble when I discovered there is no hole in the passenger side for more wires.
Can't wait to see it finished.
Don't forget to leave a flange at both ends to tuck it under the trim if you want one that is.
Only difference between yours and mine is I curved the console outward at the ends.
I'm running 6 switches. 2 separate circuits for front bumper lights, 1 for rear bumper lights, 1 for cargo light. Last two are either gonna be for later additions or theft control. Oops.
You can get a bunch of wires down the front pillar and not a job you want to do twice. I thought I was in trouble when I discovered there is no hole in the passenger side for more wires.
Can't wait to see it finished.
I figure what i'll end up doing poking holes through on the drivers side for single throw toggles, and filling them up as i go. Right now i only have one double throw for my siren, and i plan on getting cab lights, rear flood light, and front fogs.
I'm going to leave the bottom front open for mounting a cb, and the back might house some led light strips for when i have parties in my truck
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 463
Likes: 12
From: Arkansas
Thanks. I'm a little slow sometimes.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,339
Likes: 32
From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
No problem 
So I've decided, that unless I am going to pay a shop to do the metal work, I will make mine out of wood. Plan is to use thin particle board, sand the outside, then put in a sort of insulation type backer to protect the vinyl that will be the outside. The vinyl will be the same color that is going over the headliner, and will be a close match to the light color vinyl used in the seats
So I've decided, that unless I am going to pay a shop to do the metal work, I will make mine out of wood. Plan is to use thin particle board, sand the outside, then put in a sort of insulation type backer to protect the vinyl that will be the outside. The vinyl will be the same color that is going over the headliner, and will be a close match to the light color vinyl used in the seats
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,339
Likes: 32
From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
I thought about it, but in the interest of time and money, I am going to stick with a solid wood one.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,339
Likes: 32
From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
Started on the wood version yesterday. Using 1/4 plywood. Cut with a miter table saw and a compound miter saw, sanded using a stationary belt sander with 120 grit sandpaper. Put gorilla wood glue on the bottom then used a brad nailing gun with 1.5 inch brads.
As you can see, the brads like to bend a little. This is on the inside, so its not a big problem.
As you can see, the brads like to bend a little. This is on the inside, so its not a big problem.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Not to threadjack but, Ive been making one out of fiberglass. Ive added a metal frame to mount it and support it better. Used poster board covered in duct tape to make a mold.
Pulled it off the mold and used a skim coat of Bondo to even out the surface. Got it primed and painting it tomorrow.
Mas Epoxy is awesome for fiberglass BTW.
Pulled it off the mold and used a skim coat of Bondo to even out the surface. Got it primed and painting it tomorrow.
Mas Epoxy is awesome for fiberglass BTW.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Id have made mine of metal but I didnt feel like driving to a steel yard.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,339
Likes: 32
From: Lost In a Pit of Despair