This is a continuation of the thread begun by my son when he thought he would be getting the truck I ended up with. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-up-today.html

This is my first "old" truck, and I'll be asking lots of "dumb" and not-so-dumb questions. Actually, I already have, and got great answers quickly on FTE.

I've had it a couple of weeks now, got it non-registered with the great state of California so it can sit in my driveway legally until I get some important things done to it. Like making it street legal with lights and stuff. And making it safe without the widow makers... and making it run right.

I've done several small things already, like losing the ugly Chevy truck bumper, finding and reinstalling the passenger window, flushing the radiator, installing a left door stopper, switching back to positive ground, replacing the plugs, changing the oil, adjusting the hood to close correctly, securing the door handles (they both fell out), and making the throttle and choke cables work again. And I sorted through the "box o parts" that came with it and found some things I will use.

These are not new pics, but I figure I'll start the thread with some pics anyway.







I have to say FTE is the best thing I could have found (actually, my son found it) as a resource for helpful hints, ideas and information.

I'm going to rewire the truck... all of it. Also, I'll be adding turn signals, which were not original as far as I can tell.

 

Looks good!

 

Thanks. It will be a lot of fun... my wife says I'll be working on it for the next ten years. She's usually right.

I mentioned earlier that I don't think it came with turn signals because there's nothing on the steering column and there are no double filaments in the parking lights. I have no brake lights yet. But the dash has indicators, which light up when the dash lights are on. Is this normal for a '51?

There are loose wires and bare wires everywhere, and under the dash one end of a fuse holder. The steering wheel horn switch has been replaced by a button stuck to the side of the column. It has an electric wiper motor and switch that doesn't work, and I haven't crawled under there yet to troubleshoot (too hard for my old back to turn like that ). The ignition switch was replaced by a simple toggle switch. I have the correct original to fix this with. The wires to the headlights and parking lights are hanging disconnected under the grill. The taillight wires were just cut off. Lots of fun.

 

Turn signals then were an option. The option included lamps that bolted to the tops of the fenders in front, and additional lamps added at the back of the truck. They had a simple switch clamped to the side of the steering column to make them work.

The indicators in the speedo are typical. Without the t/s kit, there are unsealed holes in the back of the speedo housing for lamp sockets for the signal indicators. Light from the dash light bulbs will glow around the socket opening and shine through the arrows slightly. All perfectly normal, and part of the charm of an old vehicle. But not exactly the kind of fit and finish detail acceptable by today's standards.

 

This is what I was hoping to hear. I don't care if the t/s indicators in the dash light up, as long as it's normal.

Thanks for the info.

 

I'm going to put turn signals on it, but I think I'd rather convert the parking lamps than drill holes in the fenders. I might put them on the bumper supports, but I think it would look cleaner to just use the parking lights.

 

The truck always starts. But the first time I hit the starter switch, it always "groans". Then the second time I hit the switch, after the "groan" stops, the starter turns it over no problem, and it fires right up. What could be causing this?

 

What's the first thing you know?

I changed the oil, if you can call it that, in my flathead 6 last weekend. I say "if you can call it that" because it was more like molasses than motor oil... thick and black. And it barely registered on the dipstick.

Before I changed it, there was an oil leak. Not much, but a leak on the driveway maybe 6 inches long.

After I changed it (and luckily, I decided to leave an oil catch pan under the truck) I have a river of oil dripping to the ground, gravity being what it is. Now this flood didn't start immediately. A few hours after I changed the oil, and ran the engine, there was one drop in the pan.

Yesterday, I noticed the flood being caught in the pan.

I was checking for the source this evening after work, and I believe it's coming from the bottom of the oil filter. Not from the top which I removed to get at the canister, but from the bottom, which I did not touch.

Being new to all this flathead stuff, I was wondering:
1. If it's possible to put the oil canister in upside down?
2. If oil thinner than molasses may have found its way past gaskets I'm not even aware of?
3. If it's inadvisable to ever change the oil?

What say ye, oh oracles of Ford flathead wisdom? And stuff...

 

Try one of those toilet paper filters?

 

No, the filter was a Fram, so I cleaned it (since I didn't have one) and reinstalled it. Actually, I don't even know what you're talking about... the toilet paper filter.

 

I'm sorry I can't help,but let me bump this for you.

 

Being a noob to this forum, I don't even know what you mean by "bump this". Did I post it in the wrong place?

 

No,you're perfect.I posted in the thread so that it "Bumps" back to the top of the existing threads so that more members can view it and become aware of your presence!

 

Welcome! Great looking project. You've certainly got a good base to start from. I'm at about the same stage with my F3... started the wiring project and need to get back to it. Keep us posted on the parking lamp/turn signal conversion as that's what I think I'm going to do with mine.

Rob

 

If it's the canister I'm thinking of you'll need to disassemble the oil filter canister & replace the rubber gaskets. NAPA stores carry the filter element. Enjoy your truck, once you've got it sorted out they can be a lot of fun.