Changing Rear differential ratio
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Freshman User
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Changing Rear differential ratio
I have a '92 150, 4.9 6 manual tranny and I am fed up with the 2.73 gear ratio (which might only be because of that dim witted M5)! Most of what I use the truck for is loaded down camping off road, or we're actually looking at getting a small trailer for camping...
My question is, can average joe change his rear differential to 3.3 or 3.55, or is way above my head. I've never worked on the rear diff before, but I also love messing with my truck and I do know a good deal about what's going on. What would those parts run me? And do I need any special tools? I've heard talk of having to adjust the Pinion with the shims and that's just something I don't want to mess with. If that's the case anyone have and idea what a garage would charge for that?
Thanks, Phil
My question is, can average joe change his rear differential to 3.3 or 3.55, or is way above my head. I've never worked on the rear diff before, but I also love messing with my truck and I do know a good deal about what's going on. What would those parts run me? And do I need any special tools? I've heard talk of having to adjust the Pinion with the shims and that's just something I don't want to mess with. If that's the case anyone have and idea what a garage would charge for that?
Thanks, Phil
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Yes, you need special tools and the opportunity for failure is high. If you're unsure about it then take it to someone. I'm assuming this is a 2wd, right? Gear swaps cost about $500 to $600 depending on the shop.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
3.55 was a very common gear ratio in the 5.0 and 5.8 trucks and swapping a complete rear axle would eliminate the need for special tools... really all you need is a new set of U bolts and the brake lines have to be reconnected and bled of course. Check your local junkyard for a suitable axle.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2011
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oh conanski. i love your bank of knowledge. you really have answered every question i have ever had and notice you do the same to everybody else without prejudice. good man. and defishentman i dont know about where u are located but my junk yard here said 150 bucks for a whole axle. so it would be waaaay more economical and easier to swap the axle. i on the other hand am looking for some 4.10 gears for mine. any body got any good places to look?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
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From: Cleveland, TN
oh conanski. i love your bank of knowledge. you really have answered every question i have ever had and notice you do the same to everybody else without prejudice. good man. and defishentman i dont know about where u are located but my junk yard here said 150 bucks for a whole axle. so it would be waaaay more economical and easier to swap the axle. i on the other hand am looking for some 4.10 gears for mine. any body got any good places to look?
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Post Fiend
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Freshman User
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
I agree with the others. Don't attempt it unless you've read or watched some instruction video. I can do the 8.8 and 9 Fords, and I learned from a DVD from Ken Collins www.badshoeproductions.com Might be worth watching one to see if you're up to it. The only special tool I had to get that I didn't have, was an inch lb torque wrench, to check the pinion bearing pre-load. I've done about 10 8.8"'s, 1 7.5", and three 9" rears and they all came out perfect, thanks to that video. 
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,328
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From: Laramie, WY
^^x2 on the last post.
I had only changed diff fluid before replacing all the bearings in my 8.8. Went from screaming loud to about silent. I bought a few tools to do this job that I had been meaning to buy anyway (except the inch-pound torque wrench, this is the only job I use that for). Breaker bar, flange holder (made it out of 2x3/8 steel bar from local weld shop ~$4), large impact socket for pinion nut, dial indicator with magnetic base stand, and a brass punch. I had a local shop press the old bearings off the pinion and the carrier, then just gently heated the new bearings in the oven (only about 300*F) and cooled the pinion and carrier in the -20*F outdoors (did this in January) and used the punch to carefully seat the new bearings.
Saved a buncha money, and learned alot too.
I had only changed diff fluid before replacing all the bearings in my 8.8. Went from screaming loud to about silent. I bought a few tools to do this job that I had been meaning to buy anyway (except the inch-pound torque wrench, this is the only job I use that for). Breaker bar, flange holder (made it out of 2x3/8 steel bar from local weld shop ~$4), large impact socket for pinion nut, dial indicator with magnetic base stand, and a brass punch. I had a local shop press the old bearings off the pinion and the carrier, then just gently heated the new bearings in the oven (only about 300*F) and cooled the pinion and carrier in the -20*F outdoors (did this in January) and used the punch to carefully seat the new bearings.
Saved a buncha money, and learned alot too.
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