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ignition timing and intake gaskets

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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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ignition timing and intake gaskets

I recently installed a new Edelbrock timing chain (thanks to everyonme on this forum who walked me through that) as well as Typhoon intake with an Edelbrock carb. I got the truck started yesterday, but it is running very rough and before I start to chase down the issues, I want to make sure my thinking is right on these two things:

1. Even though I never removed the distributor, could a new timing chain change the timing? If so, should my balancer have timing numbers? There is a groove, which I assume is 0, and I have a pointer, but no numbers.

2. I purchased a book on rebuilding small-block Fords, and in that book it recommended that you not use the end gaskets (front and back) when installing an intake, that you just use gasket-making material (Perma-tex)l. I followed that advice, but now I have a little bit of oil leaking out of the front of the intake that pools just below the distributor as well as a big leak from the back of the intake that is dripping down onto the starter and bellhousing. Should I have ignored the advice in the book or did I just not use enough Perma-tex?

This engine is a 1984 351W.

Thanks!
Frank

PS - does anyone know the size of the threaded port in the back of an Edelbrock carb for power brakes? Is it 5/16 or 3/8? I need to buy a vaccuum port to attach the hose to. Thanks.
 

Last edited by BossFan; Aug 12, 2011 at 09:44 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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You are right using the sealer for the ends of intake. 1/4" bead and usually no problems. Cut the head off four bolts and insert at four corners, so you can set the intake straight down without it moving on you, and remove when you get to them placing the bolts in. Timing will need reset and the rough running could be due to the intake leaking vacuum along with the oil. Do that first before fooling with the timing. One mark on dampener is not unusual. Sometimes degree markings are on the pointer. Either way a dial back timing light is handy or mark the degrees yourself or third option is a piece of timing tape. I'm thinking the vacuum port is 1/2" NPT, but not sure on that.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Yes you need to reset the timing after the new timing chain , clean off the balencer with some sand paper and you will see the timing marks , i like to highlight the TDC and 10 deg BTDC mark with paint so its easy to see , yeah alot o guys just use RTV gasket maker to seal the front and back of the intake , it takes alot because of the thickness it needs to fill....Lew
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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And let the sealer setup overnite after you complete your torque sequence.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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Thanks for the tips! I'm going to get more sealant tonight and try out the suggestions. Also, this is probably a dumb question, but is there a gasket for the distributor? I just want to make sure that the oil is leaking from the intake as opposed from the distributor itself.

Thanks again
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 01:43 PM
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There is an "O" ring gasket on the distributor.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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Just to make sure i do this right, the areas circled in red I don't use the cork gasket, but use Perma-tex instead, right?

What color Perma-tex? Blue, Red, Black?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 04:35 PM
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I used the red....
 
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 06:11 PM
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Edelbrock Performer 2181 has a 3/8 NPT port for power brakes and/or other accesories.
Edelbrock Performer 3781 has a 1/4 NPT port.
(Stock 1984 HO intake manifold has a 3/8 NPT port)
 
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 04:35 PM
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I followed everyone's instructions here and it worked. Thanks! Now I have a new problem. I had truck running for about 5 minutes to check for leaks. She was running rough, but I figured I would have to adjust the timing. She started to rev up (I wasn't touching the gas) and then she stalled as if she ran out of gas. Now she won't start again. If I spray starting fluid or pour a little gas down the carb, she will fire, but dies out as soon as that fuel runs out. I poured an additional 5 gal of fuel into the tank, so I know she has gas.

I did change the gas tank at same time I did all this other work. I noticed when I took gas cap off to put more gas in it, there seemed to be a lot of pressure coming out (loud hiss, like a baloon losing air). She only had 3 gal or so of gas in her and it is a new 38 gal tank, so I'm not sure where all that pressure came from and I don't know how it couldv'e used all of that gas just for the couple of times I ran it after doing intake/carb/timing chain. Anyway, when I addded more gas, it would backflow out of the filler neck pretty quickly, as if she was full, but like I said, there was probably only 3 gal initially put in a brand new 38 gal tank.

Should I disconnect the line from the carb and crank the motor just to see if fuel is getting there?

Is there something else I should check?

Thanks!
 
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