I'm just grabbing at straws! Got it to crank, with ether. Could hold it at 2000 rpm but dies after 10-15 seconds even holding it to the floor. Any ideas??

 

Disable the glow plugs before you hit it with ether so you don't put a hole in your block. I'll look for your other thread, but if it runs on ether, you've either got a fuel or oil problem.

 

Leave the icp unplugged while diagnosing just to eliminate that for now, when the icp on my truck was bad it ran like **** and no one could figure out the problem with the truck, it had a horrible sporadic idle and sometimes while driving it would hesitate and giving it throttle would fix it for a while. Then it also had a very touchy throttle but when I floored it, it would slow down again. It would,also stall the truck at times and shut it off when coming to a stop. So just leave the icp unplugged for now.

Now to the no start issue, does the tachometer move while cranking? What year is the truck, I may have missed that. But I think 02-03 (someone will correct me) the tach not moving while cranking was normal.

If it is older than 02 and if the tach is not bouncing replace the CPS also called CMP sensor with a part from FORD ONLY. Its only about $30.
The auto part store CPS are crap and choke the truck when you use the wipers and will shut it off when decelerating leading to no brakes, very dangerous. Cps can and will cause a no start and bad idle.

Check the fuel bowl to see if there is trash it should be clean and not foggy

Does the "Wait to start" light come on when you turn the key when cold? If not you more than likely have a bad pcm.

Try plugging in the block heater it just makes it easier for the truck to start and crank and please please please do not use ether with the glow plugs enabled.

And if it sounds like it's running on 4 cylinders you more than likely have loose uvch and the simple 50 cent mod will fix that right up IF the connection is not burned.