im hoping to not break the bank but i cant justify buying the ford tool for $450 and various other things. so i want to know how much about i would be spending cus i dont want to pay to much or get taken advantage of. so please post what you think it would cost? thank you

 

Are you sure your rear main is leaking? They are not that common...The valley drains at the passenger's side rear of the engine and drips down the bellhousing if you have leaks up top.

 

99.99% sure either pan seal which i replaced last year and leaked before and never went away right a low point in bellhousing or rear main ,fixed my turbo leak and cleaned all up and still leaking with nothing on top end anymore anywhere

 

had to replace pan due to rust rot and i personally did the pan and juiced the heck out of it with the motorcraft gray rvt cus thats whati though was leaking other than small rot hole

 

Are you wanting to do the repair yourself or have it done? The seal is around 60$ for the good one think. That and 4 or 5 hours and that's about it.

 

WOW, I hope you don't have to pull the engine again if it is the pan that's leaking again.

Did you pull the engine to fix the pan?

 

i was going to take it in cus i dont want to buy the tool for 450 that you supposedly need not to damage new seal and yes pulled engine was 30 hrs to pull and re install and change pan and new transmission one person. im thinking going to be 400-600 sound right? and i wanted oem or is there better company seal?

 

it's 5.7hrs to replace so depending on the shop's hourly rate it varies. The ford dealer here its $547 just for the labor....

 

$500.00 + parts. They have to drop the tranny to replace 5.7hrs.
Oops: 88 ya beat me to it!

 

While I was doing a clutch I installed a new rear main in our 94.5 7.3. The seal came with a metal sleeve that goes over the crank so the new seal has a new surface to ride on and the tool to install it. I don't remember the price of the seal because I was getting lots of parts at the time but it for sure wasn't more then $100 for the whole kit from ford.

 

so your telling me i dont need ford or otc tools for removal or reinstall. does anybody have instructions to do this i know you dont need pull pan it can be put in rear

 

I've never done this myself so I have no clue what stuff looks like down there but here are some pages from a technical paper that was posted here a while back...

Hope this helps.

 

Here is how the one I got came. The white thing is the driver, the pins align the driver with the flywheel bolt holes in the crank, the black ring is the new seal, the inner silver thing is the new sleeve the goes on the crank snout. All goes on together all at one time, beat it with a hammer until the plastic tool bottoms out on the crank face evenly all the way around.



Pull the old one out with a screw driver or a punch.

 

Before I pulled the engine or sent it in to have it done, I'd buy some Tracer oil dye which will glow under a UV light when it starts coming out. That way you will know the source of the leak...$45 for the whole kit (light + dye) and the light also works for coolant leaks using Tracer dye.

Link to Tracer Dye

 

well i just got price and a forsure its leaking from rear main and gave the go ahead for it to get fixed next week. it is $400.00 labor and i got the part for cost from my buddy oem seal so $450 all done and the first and only thing i have had done by any other mechanic on my baby, can wait for a leak free 2003