OK here's some pictures of the leak:

The part (just right of the turbo mounting plate, before the manifold)




This image is from the other side the manifold, you can see where the leak is at exactly (pointed with the arrow) and yes, it dribbles all down into the valley and off the bellhousing on the back



that make more sense to you guys?

 

All was good till the end. You can get an exhaust much cheaper unless he is including install. The chip is about right if it is custom tunes. Don't touch the compressor wheel unless its damaged. The "wicked wheel" is a stock obs wheel. If he told you 500 hp honestly id let him finish the current repairs and find a different performance shop.

500 is not possible on stock 7.3 injectors of any year. The most your gonna get realisticly is 250 to 275 on stock aa injectors. I made 260 with exhaust, intake e fuel and a chip at the wheels. I was amazed it did. I figured less. The 500ft/lb of torque is about right. I would find out exact brands and such before saying ok. Also post up the part quote if you don't mind. We are more then happy to help. And make sure he isn't over charging for generic stuff.

 

Well let me correct some of what I said, I was talking about all installed components, and I believe it is a customizable chip. I was rambling it here so I would not forget what I was talking to him about. He was boasting the 500 / 500 with quite a few different mods, including the full electric fuel system, (I would expect injectors as well) and those aren't cheap... It was kinda his *introductory full performance package. He's going to work all of that up tomorrow. I'm having him fix the fuel and the A/C tomorrow. The rest is just "feeling him out" if you get my drift. Maybe I'll jump after I get to inspect the full package, maybe I won't. I still gotta convince the wife.

 

after reviewing the diagram, printing a copy, and staring into the hood of the truck climbed all over it in my work parking lot like a crazy fool, I've found it on your chart.



its the *** end of the barb poking off that part. (at least I think its the barb) I might be able to tighten that clamp or replace the hose, that will probably fix it.

that sound bout right to you?

Edit: Could possibly be the "tappet" item on the bottom, its REALLY hard to tell.

 

If he can get you 500 hp it outta be close to a 1000ft/lb. It looks close to that piece on the fuel.

 

I'd replace the hose and clamps with some real fuel hose clamps, not the worm gear type. If that doesn't work, you're probably looking at a new fuel pump, or electric fuel.

 

OK, update.

Replacing:

AC Clutch (bearings fell out when he pulled the front cover)
Bearings (obviously)

Fuel Transfer Pump (leaking out the weep hole on bottom, irrepairable) maybe JB weld, but, that be G H E T T O!

Fuel Lines

The compressor should still be OK, and the system sealed. (he didn't notice any leaks, but we'll test it after its repaired)

cost + labor
565.60$

I'm not effed this time around!!

Edit: I asked him about electric, it was 1,300$ more. He reccomended a pressure system, the electric pumps, and the return system regulation bla bla bla (he rambled off a buncha parts, I can't even remember all of it) .. but this is only a 200$ setback if I go back to use Electric down the road, that would go hand in hand with a power upgrade (chip intake exhaust injectors etc.)

 

I have that amount in my electric fuel but I also did it myself. I think he was fair in the price to fix both.

 

OK, replaced the clutch, when we pulled it, what was left of the ground up bearings fell out and landed on the ground... I'm lucky it didn't spin off the compressor and throw the serpentine belt off.

Anyways, the compressor turns, but its NOT EASY to turn. its gummed up good, just not seized. Its not healthy enough to cool the system tho, sooo I'm throwin it out.

I bought a compressor for 177$ (rebuilt), the 3$ orifice tube, and bought the 4 cans of refrigerant at about 12$ ea at autozone. They are going to rent me the vacuum pump and the pressure gauge this afternoon to fill the lines.

You guys feel that the drier is nessacary to replace if the compressor didn't seize up? (I know there's still a good chance it needs a drier after I look into the compressor and see that its just littered with debris or something, in which I'd flush the whole system too) but yeah, if it "just died" and didn't explode in there, (hopefully) and I caught it before it got nasty, I'd like to try to fix it without doing extra work.

What do you think?

Any advice on how to approach replacing the compressor (I'm gonna do it myself) I'm pretty sure I can handle everything, and/or tips you guys have? Everything you guys can offer me as help is appreciated.

 

Typically the rule of thumb is that if you open the system (as in disconnecting lines, etc) you should replace the drier. Also be sure you vac the system down and let it sit a good long while (some will even let it sit overnight) to make sure you have all the air and moisture out of the system before you recharge it. And you will probably need to add oil as well since you're going to loose most of it with the parts you're replacing.

 

OK another update:

The transmission failed.

It started slipping in and out of 1st at idle, sometimes it would drive when you pushed the gas, sometimes not. It was also hesitating to shift out of first (up to abour 3,000 RPM) and when it did shift, it with 1, 2, 3 real fast. Something was gumming up in the valve body... took it to a local transmission shop. I'm planning on selling the truck very soon, so upgrades were out of the question unless relatively cheap, or cheaper than stock.

Long story short, its 2,033.68$ in transmission repairs, should be ready on Sat. afternoon.

Banner Assembly - 295.00$
Filter - 39.60$
Band - 24.52$
One of the Planateries died, getting it replaced for free, (he had one on hand)
Thrust washer kit - 99.00$
Bearings - 86.00$
Bushing Kits - 45.52$
Center Support - 165.00$ (upgraded)
Torque Converter - 340.00$ (upped to the HD triple clutch BILLET converter)
Solonoid Pack - 224.71$
Snap Ring Kit - 65.00$
Gaskets and seals - 56.00$

Labor is 15 hours (book priced -1 hr) - 1,275$

total was approx 2,715.35$ but he cut me a hellova discount ~30% so the total rounded out at 2033.68$
I've checked most prices, and he's fair +/- 10% or so but I suppose some of the parts are bulk order, some are special order... and he's taking care of that part.

He's also flushing the entire system, and servicing the transfer case for free. He wouldn't open the transfer case without charging me, and since I'm off-loading the truck probably by mid-october to the highest bidder, I figured I'd just sell it without working 4wd if flushing it out and new fluid won't fix it.

Most 4wd guys will want to replace the factory auto-locking ****e hubs with WARN manual hubs anyways.

The tranny cooler is not getting swapped by him, I can handle that, its a pretty easy job. I'll go order a "better" model ~75-80$ and do it myself. I just hope I don't dribble too much fluid on the ground and end up having to put 4+ quarts back in

you guys have any advice on good/bad things that is getting done? What about a good tranny cooler? got any preferences around 75-80$?